okay so went around roundabout the other day and all electronics cut out! not even the oil pressure light is on, battery has 13.3V when on charge and still nothing all fuses in fuse box are okay and replaced the 30amp main fuse but still no go.

the r/r has 0.2 ohms between all yellow and red/white. i know this is a little low but with no engine running....

any ideas? the bike has been stripped down and is going to become my race bike but i dont want to rip the loom out and cut it down just yet.

 

try removing the 2 metal connectors to the relay where the 30amp fuse is and just connect them

i accidently did this and my bike started without the ignition key in

 

I wonder if youyr talking about the 30A fuse that is directly after the positive terminal of the battery. That would be my first place to look. Next place would be to make sure both battery terminals are connected well. 13V is a bit high for a battery should be more around 12.2 but i dont see why that would cause you to have no electronics at all

 

!3+ volts while running/charging isn't unusual. So that's not the likely issue.

+1 to be sure the battery connections are clean and tight.

Try another 30a fuse, sometimes the fuse is bad and doesn't look bad.
Install it and run your meter to the output side, be sure you're getting current there.

After that, it's time to check the physical wiring and connectors.

Inspect the entire harness, looking for the usual suspects.
Pull each connector in turn.
Check them for loose connections/burnt pins/melted plastic, etc.

Do the same for the fuses in the auxilary panel.

Hope this helps, Ern

 

ive checked the auxilary fuses and they're fine actually very clean for 59k miles. the 30amp fuse just after the positive battery terminal has been changed for another brand new one.

the R/R has 0.2 ohms from the stator to the red/white wire.

no obvious visible signs and ive checked no wires have come undone. there seems to be ohms across all of the bikes electronics but no voltage! urgh

next is a new icu (for those that dont know the icu is what is known as the ecu but isnt actually an ecu)

oh and the battery on charge is 13.3v and off charge is 12.3v and doesnt drop when the starter button is used.

oh and ive chopped the ignition so that resistance is present so it isnt the ignition.

 

Just happened to me ..
Battery tested good .
Showed full charged on 3 different chargers ..
Me being a non mechanic and after fretting about how I would find my problem put in a new battery and it worked ? Go figure

 

When all my electronics cut out it was a loose battery terminal, just saying.

 

A no power problem should be a fairly easy thing to track down. There aren't many places that will totally kill all power to the bike.

If the 30A fuse is good, then you should have 12v in 2 places whether the ignition key is on or off. The Red/White wire of the R/R and the Red wire identified as BAT1 of the ignition switch. If you don't have 12v there, then you've got an open circuit between there and the Start Relay Switch. The ICM has nothing to do with this part.

If you find 12v at those locations, then the next place to check is when you have the ignition switch on, do you have 12 coming out of the Ignition Switch on both the Red/Black and the Blue/Orange wires (the ignition switch must be connected and in the on position to make this check) ?

Let us know what you find.

BTW
What do you mean by "you've chopped the ignition" ?

 

I followed the ignition wires to were they are behind the gauges and cut them and twisted the red/black and the red wires together! I did this as I said race bikes don't need ignition and it was just a way of seeing if the mechanical ignition had gone. And no volts to the ignition wires so its an open circuit I'll re-wire it later and tell you how I get on.