New forum member, having headlight problem
#1
New forum member, having headlight problem
Hey,
Im Michael, I am new to the forum. I just bought my first bike since 2007. I now have a CBR f4. My headlight isnt working, I tried a new bulb, I checked the fuses and they are all good. Checked the switch and the connections look good. NEXT STEP????
Im Michael, I am new to the forum. I just bought my first bike since 2007. I now have a CBR f4. My headlight isnt working, I tried a new bulb, I checked the fuses and they are all good. Checked the switch and the connections look good. NEXT STEP????
#2
#3
#4
Do you have a multi-meter? Even an in-expensive one will serve and it's really
a "must have" tool. My current favorite is an Extech EX430, picked it up for $70.
It's not the cheapest out there, but it will do everything you'll ever want in a quality
build. Here's a link if you're curious....
EX430 - 11 Function True RMS Professional MultiMeter
With a multi-meter, you can pull the head-light plug(s) and check for hot at the
connecton. Set the meter for 12 volt DC range (0-50 volt is common for this setting).
With the key ON, put the black probe on a good ground (engine, etc) and check the
terminals in the plug, each in turn. I don't know for sure how the f4i is wired, but it
should be a 2 or 3 prong connection. One is the ground (probably either green or
black), it won't show current. The other one (or 2) should show voltage. One on low,
one on high beam. If not trace the offending wire to the next point in the harness,
and test there. Keep following the path, till you find where the current is good.
Replace/repair, whatever is wrong between those last points.
How did you determine that the bulb and fuses are good? A visual inspection is NOT a
reliable method. Check for continuity with your mulit-meter or replace with a KNOWN
good part. Bulbs and fuses can fail without showing any visable signs. You can also
check switches for continuity to assure operation, as well. Put the probe on each side
of the switch and see if it makes/breaks continuity, as you operate the switch.
Hope this gives you some direction, Ern
a "must have" tool. My current favorite is an Extech EX430, picked it up for $70.
It's not the cheapest out there, but it will do everything you'll ever want in a quality
build. Here's a link if you're curious....
EX430 - 11 Function True RMS Professional MultiMeter
With a multi-meter, you can pull the head-light plug(s) and check for hot at the
connecton. Set the meter for 12 volt DC range (0-50 volt is common for this setting).
With the key ON, put the black probe on a good ground (engine, etc) and check the
terminals in the plug, each in turn. I don't know for sure how the f4i is wired, but it
should be a 2 or 3 prong connection. One is the ground (probably either green or
black), it won't show current. The other one (or 2) should show voltage. One on low,
one on high beam. If not trace the offending wire to the next point in the harness,
and test there. Keep following the path, till you find where the current is good.
Replace/repair, whatever is wrong between those last points.
How did you determine that the bulb and fuses are good? A visual inspection is NOT a
reliable method. Check for continuity with your mulit-meter or replace with a KNOWN
good part. Bulbs and fuses can fail without showing any visable signs. You can also
check switches for continuity to assure operation, as well. Put the probe on each side
of the switch and see if it makes/breaks continuity, as you operate the switch.
Hope this gives you some direction, Ern
#5
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post