Hey guys. I am still pretty new to the site. Hoping that I could get some input about an issue that I am having.
To start, I am working on a 1997 CBR 900RR. I have replaced literally everything on the bike minus the motor and triple trees.

The problem is in the rear wheel. I installed the billet 6 inch extension blocks, new bearings and seals, new sproket, chain, rotor, caliper and caliper mount. After getting it on the road, I drove 22 miless and started hearing and feeling a thumping noise from the rear wheel. I looked down and the wheel was wobbling. I got it back home and the brake side wheel bearing is toast. I mean it was totally destroyed.

I am wondering wether I could have gotten a bad bearing of wether it was from the local speed shop that pressed the bearings in. I used ALL ***** bearing and used a torque of 60 lbs on the axle nut.

I went on cheap cycle parts and ordered the OEM bearing, seals, new spacers ( just because ). I noticed on the diagram that it looks like there is a spacer between the inner bearing and and the cush drive assembly. can't really tell from the pic. The long spacer is in the wheel, between the main 2 wheel bearings.

Can anyone help? Thanks in advance

 

there should me 3 spacers. a long one inside the wheel between the bearings, one with a flange on the sprocket side, and one on the brake side.

 

Thanks. I did see the flanged spacer on the diagram on Cheapcycleparts, but it did not offer a part number for. The spacer that is on the sprocket side now, is the same as the spacer on the disc side. Looks like I need to find the correct spacer.

Thanks again.

 

Could be a bad bearing from factory. How tight was the chain? Remember if you adjust with the rear off the ground you have to allow for additional slack. Otherwise, as the swing arm pivots up (bumps) it will put a lot of stress on the chain and bearings.

 

I was thinking the same thing about the bearing being bad.

Here's what I have found out. I called the local honda shop and they are looking at the same parts diagram that I have. They show the "top hat" style bearing to only fit the 93-95 models. He is going to double check that on Monday, when he can call Honda. So I might have that part figured out.

Also, is there a spacer between the cush drive and the wheel bearing on the chain side??? When I place the cush drive flat against the wheel, there is about 1 1/4" gap between the wheen bearing and the cush drive inner. It didn't make any sense to me for there to be a long shim between the 2 whhel bearings and then a gap between the wheel bearing and cush drive.

What is the best method determine correct chain tension?

Thanks.

 

You should have 1-1.25" of slack in the lower run on the chain.

The reason to check the lower run, is the bike pulls from the top run and it should be
tight. All of the slack will be distributed to at the lower side between the sprockets.
To be sure roll the bike forward a foot or so. That will ensure the above.

The bike needs that much slack to assure that it doesn't become too tight, as it
travels through the arc of the swing-arm pivot, as you load/unload the shock while riding.

Ern

 

MADHATTER. What do you think about the bearing issue. I am overly paranoid when it comes to my bikes and I need to feel good about this or I will never enjoy riding it.

Thanks for the input.

 

My F3 has a flanged spacer on each side, plus the one in the center to keep from
pushing the inner-races apart. I believe that it's pretty typical (has been for me).
I do not remember if they are "handed" though, it's been a while since I've visited
that spot.

If you missed installing the one on the right side, than that would cause the bearing
to fail. The inner race would be missing the side-load support needed,
when you tighten the axle-nut.

Hard to tell from your post, but you should know, since you're there.

Hope that helps, Ern