Hello I have a 1998 honda cbr 600 f3.other week bike died on me.got it home replaced.Stator coil.new regulator rectifier for a fire blade 900. with misfit technology.new 5 pin plug with wires for theregulator rectifier.I hard wired the 3 yellow wires together with electric tape making sure the don't touch.bike runs like it should! as soon as I turn my lights on it started to do the same as the 1st time slowly dies then cut out. I waited 5 mins or so and started it with out the lights on. it started but sounded like it was struggling, got it going and seemed fine but was nursing her home.rmp idle is at 1.500 as it should.all day it's been fine and soon as I turn them lights on after 1min or 2 it dose it.has anyone had this problem beforemy head is now fried.any help would be appreciated 🙏

 

Hmmm...

Need to positively track down problem component before replacing just the one bad part. Problem with replacing perfectly-working parts with pile of brand-new perfectly working parts is nothing changes and problem persists. It's like replacing all your tyres, swingarm and windscreen with brand-new parts, how likely is that to fix your electrical problem?

There are MANY components in electrical system, need to find exact problem to identify bad component before replacing single thing. Otherwise be prepared to replace everything so that you randomly luck out and replace the ONE part that's bad out of 100 that you replaced. So might as well get brand-new factory OEM parts from authorised Honda dealer: wiring-harness, all switches, all light bulbs and sockets, all charging system components, all ignition system parts, all engine sensors, because any single one of them can be causing this issue.

Another problem with shotgunning pile of random parts is you introduce additional errors and variables into system. Taping over twisted wires is not better-than-OEM quality and can possibly be as problematic as original corroded connectors. And if you didn't use factory OEM stator and RR, poor-quality aftermaket parts is most likely part of issue here as well. Better to get used factory OEM part from breakers than new 3rd-party parts.

At this point, best to remove all replaced parts and put all original OEM parts back on and restore bike to previous condition to remove those new parts from equation as causing issues. Then we start testing and measuring with multimeter to gather numbers. Compare those numbers with standards in manual to see which numbers don't match. That points to area that needs closer inspection and perhaps more measurements.

1. measure battery voltage with everything OFF. Volts = ???
2. measure battery voltage during cranking & pushing START. Volts = ???
3. measure battery voltage with bike idling. volts = ???
4. measure battery voltage with lights ON. Volts = ???
5. battery voltage after 1-min lights ON, volts = ???
6. battery voltage after 2-min lights ON, volts = ???
7. idle: measure stator yel output wires AC volts, A+B wires volts = ???
8. idle: measure stator yel output wires AC volts, B+C wires volts = ???
9. idle: measure stator yel output wires AC volts, C+A wires volts = ???
10. 3000rpm: measure stator yel output wires AC volts, A+B wires volts = ???
11. 3000rpm: measure stator yel output wires AC volts, B+C wires volts = ???
12. 3000rpm: measure stator yel output wires AC volts, C+A wires volts = ???

This is how factory-trained dealer mechanic will narrow down or rule out areas that MAY be problem. By following procedure straight out of manual. Most of time, it's bad corroded wiring or connectors that's issue since Honda used such low specs on their wiring.

 

hello thank you for your reply and the detailed response. the parts I bought was oem the rr is just bigger than the f3 same plug ect.
I did not use 3 pin connector plug from stator to rr. just hard wired I will fix that.

I do have LEDs
turn signals LED with led relay for the flashing.
LED brake light.
LED number plate light.
LED Dat time running light.
Standard headlight.

now it only boggs down and cuts out when the head light are on.
because today I have been out with the lights off this time, it's fine.
as it became dark I switched the head lights on
after 5 mins or so it bogged down and cut out.
could the fault be a head light relay?
or a faulty connection?

I will Purchase a multi meter and work down your list.
thank you again much appreciated and fast response 🙏

 

You're welcome!

We'll track this down one test at time to narrow down problem area. Then also do some process-of-elimination testing to track down exact issue.

1. Did this problem occur before or after LED install?
2. Did you install LED using original connectors for plug-n-play installation? https://www.corsa-technic.com/catego...ategory_id=278
3. How did you configure 2-wire LED winkers to work with 3-wire factory harness? Or just left out running-lights?

Did you tie, solder and heat-shrink wrap stator-to-RR connection? It's done this way in pro-motorsports (F1/MotoGP), military and aerospace applications for performance, reliability and durability. If not, it's no better than crappy original connector and will burn and cause you issues. Any time you do any wiring, you'll want to improve on Honda's low-end standards, otherwise you'll end up with same problems in little time.

 

Hi mate that's again for another reply 👍.
ok so the LEDs.
I bought the bike as a track bike. When bought last year it was just rebuild everything new even down to the shims.
I put the LEDs indicators on for road use and bought a plug and play connector/relay.
the rear LED light was already on it's a small rectangle one from ebay.
also the side light / low beam is an led already on.
Now last summer the bike ran perfect All the way to winter.
couple off weeks ago I took it out and the problem started, I changed the parts what I assumed was the issue it happened again.
then bought a better rr and coil.
started the bike up 1st time took it out for the day no problems.
that day I did not ride with any lights on as I normally do, I am observing.
as it got dark I turned the lights on and it started losing power to a stop then cut out.
now that's the confusion how is it when the lights are on it kills the bike.
it's like the voltage is to high or low.
if high it gets to hot?
I have your list of Knowledge I will use.
1st things 1st I have to buy a multimeter, heat shrink and solder iron.
when I have enough time I will send some pics and a video so you can visually see.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/130799603363

 

https://www.wemoto.com/bikes/honda/c.../flasher_relay

 

I'm thinking there may be short in lighting circuit somewhere. Such that it sucks up more power than RR+stator can generate. Thus battery draining until it can no longer power ignition-unit.

Your measurements will point confirm or deny this hypothesis and give us area to examine more closely.

Quick test is to unplug just headlights globes. Then turn on lights and see if it still drains power and dies. Then we'll have narrowed it down to headlight circuit is or is not problem.

 

Rodger that I will start on it when weather brakes hopefully some time this week, start the narrowing down process.
and get the kit I need.
I will also take a video and some close ups.
thank you

 

Hi there hope all is well at your end
I have done what was required all whent well.

the issue was still there, I noticed at high speed it would bog then slow to a stop.

well the problem is the carbs not getting enough fuel in at higher RPM/speed.

thats due to the T piece it's broken
it must of had a small split in it.

today after fitting voltage fast charger I noticed fuel pouring out from that piece.

I will replace with metal/brass one's
will also get carbs cleaned and gaskets.

hopefully this will of fixed issues.