Thanks Nevada.

My power issues come from the fact that my bike doubles as a tourer. I'm installing heated grips, I've already got a heated vest, I run a GPS/Autocom/MP3 player/GMRS radio all the time (low amp draw, but it's constant)...

I'd like a bit more overhead for just in case. At the moment I flick off the heated stuff in town so that I don't over consume. On the highway I make extra.

I'm not sure if the F4i parts will fit or not - some of the part numbers looked the same. I know the arm and the windings were different. The physical dimensions of the engine are all almost exactly the same. I'm really looking for a donor bike - because I'll swap the whole charging system. This thread's talk of a different R/R got me thinking I might go that route, and only swap F4i core and stator arm over.

Looking for parts though... if I can find them I'll be doing the swap. I'm not intimidated by the wiring as my bike has become a wiring hobby

Woot.

ANY input welcomed!

 

Found a couple things through google:

http://pnwriders.com/mechanical-tech...e-wattage.html

http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics....5DQlI2MDBGNA==

 

REGULATOR RECTIFIER - cbr1000f specific - replacement reccomendation, testing and workshop manual pages for electrics... many pictures .... Download this pdf....

http://tinyurl.com/6fnjdq

 

Hi all - I found this thread via a linkback on the primary thread referenced in the opening post - I am the author of that. I hope you find it helpful.

A couple of quick comments if I may?

Please note that is an SCR Regulator - you can immediately tell whether a Shindengen R/R is SCR or FET by the S or F designation as the first character of the model number.
I would not recommend that particular one as being any better than an original unit, and indeed lesser than the late model OEM CBR Shindengen FET units.

FET units run MUCH cooler, because they are much more efficient - the difference is quite pronounced.

You can happily ignore any reference that say 'recommended for XYZ brand/model' as pretty much ANY 3 phase R/R will work, the differences being the power rating and the connector plugs.
Connector Plugs are easily transferred and mounting differences are also readily accommodated.

If you want to stay 'in family' the late model CBR units use the Shindengen FET R/R. Latest Honda CBR1000 uses an FHO14 designation - odd connector on there however.

CBRriderNevada - good input in the insulation tester - theory is spot-on. My advice on checking for short (just as is same for the R/R test) is meant to be definitive only if fails and rightly stated you cannot guarantee success just because it does not record a short with a regular DMM.
However in my experience, once these things break down, they deteriorate rapidly and you end up with a black carbon mess; so for most practical purposes, a DMM will suffice. Also rare that anyone will have one in their tool-kit, so I refrain from advising to use one as it may tend to lead someone unnecessarily into pursuing that. You will undoubtedly see any associated Stator issues in the AC Voltage readings at output of the stator - differences in the voltages between the three phases is the real giveaway here.

I also do not dispose general advice on checking for current drain - inexperienced users can create problems when using the current scale! Not universal, but unless there are accessories connected, drained batteries are inevitably typically either bad battery itself or problematic charging system - very rarely anything OEM on the bike that will create that situation of battery being drained by a standing current (note the exception on after-market accessories!)

Thank you again for referring my thread and hope you found that & this added advice helpful.

Happy & safe riding!

 

Thanks - and visit us more often.
Maybe if you do, we can resolve Reg/rec /Stator
issues before they get to 150+ pages !!!!!

 

Ricks -

Quality products - I have Ricks stator in my Triumph.
Great customer service too, extremely helpful.

 

I'll have to look for that one!

These systems are really not that complicated and I hope with the guidance I've provided it takes a lot of the mystery out of it and anyone should be able to accurately diagnose the problem if you follow the diag procedure. We're only talking about three components here - stator, R/R and Battery!
I find that many motorcycle service technicians have poor understanding of the charging system - unlike auto service centers, where they often have dedicated auto-electric technicians, motorcycle mechanics tend to be more proficient on the mechanical side and even the good ones are perhaps a bit light on the electrical issues.
(Now that is a broad generalization & I hasten to add that not universal - I know there are good techs out there!)

 

https://cbrforum.com/forum/cbr-1000f-hurricane-38/my-electrical-system-adventure-89338/

 

Great work DEcosse & great explanations.