Guys,
This isn't a huge job but there are a couple of tips that will make it easier for you should you decide to install these. The main thing with them is to ensure you have enough wiring free to enable you to turn your bars on full lock both ways. Otherwise you either face tearing the wires out of the grips or not being able to steer the bike properly. I also found that running the wires through the existing cable holders that are each side of the fuel tank mounting bolts kept the wiring tidy. I then followed the existing cables ( throttle & choke ) underneath the tank and went over the top of the airbox to the control box that I mounted behind the battery box down under the level of the seat so as not to foul the seat. Excess wiring was cable tied up and sat behind the battery box.

I then cable tied all cabling to ensure tidiness and I taped the connectors up to minimise moisture getting in etc. The grips themselves were very easy to put on. I just pulled the clutch side off and cut the throttle side off with a sharp knife.

They come with full instructions and are easy to follow. They recommend super gluing the grips on but I found I didn't need to do that. All up it took me a couple of hours as I wanted the wiring to be done properly and to be properly secured.

I wired mine straight to the battery but thats just me. Others will wire them into the ignition no doubt. I found the mounting bracket for the switch block that they supply is the best way of mounting the switchblock. They also provide longer bolts that go through your clutch slave cylinder mount to hold the bracket. You can bend it up if it fouls the top of the fluid reservoir which mine did a little bit. Hope this helps. Cheers.

 

I have the same, but older grips. I mounted the controller in the same place, but I wired the positive into the dash lights and grounded the negative to the engine block with the main battery ground. The only issue, not major is they turn off if there is not enough amps flowing, below 1500rpm for longer than a minute or so. Never have to worry about leaving them on with the key off.
Good write up though on running the wires!

Paul

 

what size are these to fit,,,,,,,,,,,,, 22mm?

i'v a 99 1000f and was going to get the r&g grips

 

They are for 7/8 bars Blaziken. Even though each size is a different diameter they come correct so you can put them straight on. Takes no time at all. They heat up great. You cant hold onto them at 100 percent power. Cheers.

 

Thanks for the write up Bordo. I ordered mine today. Not sure yet where I will tie the positive lead in yet though. I like the thought of having it turn off by the ignition switch, but I dont like the idea of splicing into another wire and worry about blowing fuses, etc. Thoughts?

 

I just went with the battery Bicklebok. They turn off by themselves anyway if they sense anything under 11 volts. The couple of times I have used them I have remembered to switch them off though so no problems on that front as yet......lol. Cheers. Let us know how the install goes.

 

got my R&G heated grips on thursday and fitted them today, i done a wee how to with a charger link i use,,,
i put the earth to the battery and the positive to the charger link connection positive.
it just means i can isolate it anytime,and it has to be disconnected to charge my battery.

bloody roasting to the bare hands.

 

My grips came in and I started the install. But I was unable to finish today. Between the time change with no daylight, and my bad eyes, I figured I better call it a day and take the time and do it right when I can see better. I hate it though! Temp will be 37 F in the morning. Sure would have liked to try them out in the a.m.

 

finally got them installed. At 75% setting, which is plenty on heat, she is putting out 13.5 volts at 3000 rpm. Should be good to go!

 

PICs Ronnie >>>pics ??