if i was you, i'd get like one more can of everything, and practice on something else, like empty cd cases or a box.give it time to dry between coats (coats meaning you sprayed what you wanted without runing the paint, not just one pass) and you should be fine, just remember to look at what your spraying and spray it fast, and go over multiple times. i'll try to make a video tomorrow of how fast to move and what to look for.

sorry for the late response.

 

thanks for the write up and thanks to everyone else that has asked the necesarry questions for the nitty gritty specifics.

my project however (that will start this winter, novemberish?) will be to swap the sub frame and tail from an F4i, strip prep and paint my whole bike FLAT black, get the split seats covered in candy apple red, get red grips, and paint my wheels candy apple red (high gloss)

my question is what is the best approach to painting a flat color on the plastics and the tank and also what is the best method of painting the rims other than powder coating (the process actually makes the wheels weaker a lot of the time)

thanks everyone

G

 

powdercoating is the best way to paint rims PERIOD, trying to paint them yourself is just ghetto. Powdercoating will not make the rims weaker there just sanded down, blasted with powdered paint then clearcoated and baked to dry the process just like how a car is painted.

If you want to do it yourself you remove everything and if you want it done properly you have to remove the tires as well. Sand, clean, sand again to not miss a spot then paint a couple coats let sit for 24hrs then clearcoat a couple coats and let sit 24hrs

 

I would like to start off by saying I'm not trying to hi-jack this post, more so add information and give some additional tips, if done correctly using this method you can achieve quality results but sacrifice longevity and durability. These are lower quality paints and do not have very good UV protection and will probably start to fade quickly. For the budget painter this is a good method but it is always recommended to get paint done professionally. Keep in mind that if you use spray can paint alot of them are not urethane based and if you decide to get it professionally painted later the new paint will react and cause and world of problems, most shops will charge you double the price just to strip all this paint off and start over, now if you dont plan on getting professional paint done then have at it. I am a professional painter and have had to deal with this problem. I agree with AKEP's method but would substitute the scotch brite pads and wet sand using 400-600 grit sandpaper, after sanding wash thouroughly using warm water and a mile detergent like dish soap, powder laundry detergent works best because it will clean off any oils or grease from the surface. Adhesion promoter is not necessary if painting over old paint, but if you sand down to plastic make sure to use it, you can spray it over everything if you prefer its just not a must. Always spray more than one coat of clear coat. Another option you have is some paint stores will actually put automotive urethane paint (the good stuff, dupont, ppg) in a spray can for you then all you need its a good clear coat and now you'll have a higher quality paint that will look good longer.

 

i like the beginning of dejeu86's post. it's like a disclaimer.

If done correctly using this method you can achieve quality results but sacrifice longevity and durability. These are lower quality paints and do not have very good UV protection and will probably start to fade quickly. For the budget painter this is a good method but it is always recommended to get paint done professionally.

as for the wheels, i'd use the aircraft stripper, or sand it. then powdercoat it. appearently BMW is using it (powder clear coat) for their cars now. suppsed to be hard as rocks.

one thing also, this stuff isnt that hard to remove, so if you ever do decide to take it and get it painted, save yourself the labor costs and romove the paint yourself. its not like your stripping a car.

sand/scuff like posted above, then use adhesion promoter. the technique i posted is almost fail proof. for the tank, i'd at least get that painted for reals. because this stuff will probably look like crap after you ride it a few times if your crotch rubs on it. lol. it doesn't cost a thing to get a quote for your tank.

 

lol hey bluej ive got a rsx also, identical to ur friends on the left. cept i gotta get my mugen bumper freakin re done again since i cracked it

 

hey guys i have a 2000 cbr 1100xx but my question is about my aprilia rsv1000i highsided yesterday and wanna paint my fairings and tank. if i have acces to reall sprayers (my dad sprays al his own heavy equip.) should i try a higher quality panit because i dont need a can or should i stick with this method it seems like itll work but ive never painted anything other than my apt. im not looking for anything fancy but ive been adding little scrapes and scratches over the years and delaying it by saying oh well its just smal well now its a bunch of small ones and it really looks like **** and im not into the fancy custom paint i ride my bikes everyday hell i dont even own a car. any infor for i guy who is spending money on parts not making it pretty will help. thanks.