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How To: LED tail light upgrade replace HotBodies Lights

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Old 08-01-2016, 08:50 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2016
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Post How To: LED tail light upgrade replace HotBodies Lights

Hello everyone I just got a new-to-me 2002 f4i. It looks like the previous owner installed the Hotbodies Undertail Kit. I like the look it gave the bike but I was not a fan of the seemingly low-quality tail lights.

One of my biggest concerns with the tail lights is that you could hardly tell a difference between the regular running light and the applied brake light. This obviously can make for a dangerous situation. I also did not care for half the light to be the brake and the other half of the light to be the turn signal. I searched for a write up for an upgrade but it was initially hard for me to search since the bike already had an 'upgraded' rear.

Luckily I found the user gint's post here : https://cbrforum.com/forum/f4i-main-...pgrade-128078/ that would set me in the right direction.

*** I would like to note, unfortunately that we bought the “Magic Genie” and the ELFR-1 flasher relay but we did not need them. The ELFR-1 flasher relay can be a backup relay. I did not consider it and I don’t know if the HotBodies kit came with its own relay but that is what I assumed as the Hotbodies one are also LED I believe so they would have needed a new relay anyway. ***

Regarding the Magic Genie’s here is the email discussing the issue of them (RED is my father) (blue is Jon from CustomLED.com):
The 1.85”custom LEDs we ordered had Red as the primary color and Yellow as the secondary color.
The wiring of the LED board is (red-tail, white stop/turn, black gnd)

We wanted the RED LEDs to be used for tail and for stop. When brake is not present, the tail signal would run through a 75 ohm ˝ watt to the red wire. When brake is active, that signal would bypass the resistor and run directly to the red wire – thus the LED’s would be a lot brighter.

Then the bike’s turn signal would run directly to the white wire, so that when turn is active the RED LEDs would shut off and only the yellow LEDs would be present and flashing.

My son also bought the ‘Blinker Genie’ and a special relay/flasher for LED’s, my questions are:

1. Does he need both the special relay and the blinker genie or just one or the other?
2. If the blinker genies are required, then they would just be wire to the LED’s white turn wire and the one wire on the Blinker gemie is not used?
3. Maybe you would be able to sketch us a wiring diagram of the components and wiring and how they should be installed?

Thank you very much,
You don't need the Blinker Genie for the 1.85" clusters. The clusters are already configured for a run and turn operation. The resistor configuration you noted will work as you intend, however I also suggest you install a diode on the brake light circuit coming in so the running light voltage can't back-feed out into the brake circuit.

The blinker genies are typically used on the front when switching to a single intensity LED turn signal lamp.

You should definitely replace the flasher relay anytime you remove the factory turn signals.
Please let me know if I can be of further assistance.

Regards,

Jon
Custom LED

Another pain was the jiffy splices that must have came with the HotBodies kit. We did not have any room at all to cut the wires and crimp. Was not a fan at all with this but my father and I got it to work.

Sorry for the somewhat lengthy introduction but here I begin:

To start with, you will need:


Here are the steps taken for the LED tail light upgrade:

1. Remove the entire Honda bottom tail section which contained the two 1.85" inch round LED's and disconnect the seat lock(roughly 20 minutes for the 4 screws, disconnecting the seat lock and disconnecting the wiring from the lights to the harness)

2. Clean the bottom tail section. For this and actually for every part of the bike I found Stoner's Invisible Glass Cleaner to work very effectively at cleaning. (2 minutes)

3. Using a dremel tool with small metal grinding attachment - carefully grind all around the edge of the existing LED circuit board being careful not to take any off the clear lens cover. Grind just enough that the new LED board will fit down into the cover.

4. After the old LED board has been removed, put on small sanding attachment to the dremel tool to make all edges smooth, even and flush.

5. Using a can of compressed air, blow out all the small debris left from the grinding and to ensure there was no moisture.

6. For some added rigidity, I used an old paint can lid - removed the very top and then cut the rest into two even pieces which was used as a form for the sealant around the LEDs

7. Checked to see how I wanted the new LEDs oriented in the lens covers, then put a small even bead of sealant around the edge of the lens and carefully set the LED down on.

8. Next, tape the 1/2 paint can lid to the tail section and around the LED to act as a form, then fill that with more of the epoxy ensuring there was no air pockets and it completely cover the board and around the wires


NOTE: The sealant we used takes a full 24 hrs to completely adhere and it recommends to let it sit that full 24 hours. This total process took us about 3 total days to do (mostly because of the sealant)

I feel bad for not taking pictures as I was kind of in a hurry. Although to make up for this here is a complete wiring schematic of the job. Hopefully this should answer any questions about the wiring but we tried to keep it as stock as possible:
How To: LED tail light upgrade replace HotBodies Lights-honda_cbr_wiring_taillight_upgrade.png

And also here is a video of the final product:

If you'd like me to take picture of the final assembly I can do that as well or I can always take another video. At the time of this video it was raining so I had to film it inside :]

A big thanks to gint as if it were not for his post I am unsure if I would have ever found CustomLED.com or any upgraded tail lights for the HotBodies Undertail kit. Thank you.

Also thank you to CustomLED.com for providing this product and great help.

Thank you everyone, hopefully someone will benefit from this although I know the f4is are getting old :]
 
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