how to battle proof your bike....
i did pretty much the same thing on my Jeep Wrangler a few years ago (since been sold)....i used something like rhinoliner, i forget the name...you can pick it up at Menard's for like $80 which would be more than enough for a bike....
i can second that this is some messy crap....you CAN roll it on....BUT it doesn't look as good as sprayed...i worked on my jeep with a buddy and took us about 12 hours or so to do between prep and spray....
we had to remove literally EVERYTHING in my jeep and tape off everything...on a side note....wherever you spray...make sure there is NOTHING around...the stuff carries...i got some on my seat that i had removed that was roughly 15 feet away from where i was spraying....after removal, you need to sand everything to give it a surface to grip to....we just used acetate to clean up the dust....you have to make sure the surface is dust free or the grip of the stuff won't be good and will flake off....the stuff is really crappy for flaking if you don't do the right prep....
btw...i know a lot about it just because in the off-roading community (of which i was a BIG part of at one time) used this stuff a lot so we can swim our vehicles without rust....
now...IF you do it right (which it looks like you did Bazook) you apply a first coat...this coat is thin and will look bad because since it's textured it sort of clumps on...the coverage will SUCK...but you NEED to do a light coat and let it dry....MUST let it dry (the times are on the product for in-between coats)....then spray another coat which will fill in more of the gaps....rinse and repeat the spray/dry process....this is what takes a bunch of time...
I STRESS, you don't HAVE to be as patient, but then you are more prone to flaking later on and or inadequate bondage to the surface....
after awhile, you begin to see full coverage....at that point it's up to you how much you put on...the more you put on, the smoother the surface will get (it will never get really smooth)...meaning enough to just cover the surface will be rather rough...but the more you spray...the more it evens out...if you think about it, this makes sense.....
make sure, as Bazook said, COVER OR FILL ANY HOLE...this stuff is thick and doesn't really peel or chip away so if you get some in a bolt hole...you likely have to drill out the hole in order to get clearance without damaging the outside of the hole....we used blue tap wadded up and stuffed in EVERY bolt hole....and that worked well....
i think that is all...if you want pictures of the process that I went through, let me know...i have a bunch of pics from when i did my jeep....or if you have any questions let me know....i also learned alot about spraying the stuff on vs. rolling on.....anyways...hope this helps a bit...
i can second that this is some messy crap....you CAN roll it on....BUT it doesn't look as good as sprayed...i worked on my jeep with a buddy and took us about 12 hours or so to do between prep and spray....
we had to remove literally EVERYTHING in my jeep and tape off everything...on a side note....wherever you spray...make sure there is NOTHING around...the stuff carries...i got some on my seat that i had removed that was roughly 15 feet away from where i was spraying....after removal, you need to sand everything to give it a surface to grip to....we just used acetate to clean up the dust....you have to make sure the surface is dust free or the grip of the stuff won't be good and will flake off....the stuff is really crappy for flaking if you don't do the right prep....
btw...i know a lot about it just because in the off-roading community (of which i was a BIG part of at one time) used this stuff a lot so we can swim our vehicles without rust....
now...IF you do it right (which it looks like you did Bazook) you apply a first coat...this coat is thin and will look bad because since it's textured it sort of clumps on...the coverage will SUCK...but you NEED to do a light coat and let it dry....MUST let it dry (the times are on the product for in-between coats)....then spray another coat which will fill in more of the gaps....rinse and repeat the spray/dry process....this is what takes a bunch of time...
I STRESS, you don't HAVE to be as patient, but then you are more prone to flaking later on and or inadequate bondage to the surface....
after awhile, you begin to see full coverage....at that point it's up to you how much you put on...the more you put on, the smoother the surface will get (it will never get really smooth)...meaning enough to just cover the surface will be rather rough...but the more you spray...the more it evens out...if you think about it, this makes sense.....
make sure, as Bazook said, COVER OR FILL ANY HOLE...this stuff is thick and doesn't really peel or chip away so if you get some in a bolt hole...you likely have to drill out the hole in order to get clearance without damaging the outside of the hole....we used blue tap wadded up and stuffed in EVERY bolt hole....and that worked well....
i think that is all...if you want pictures of the process that I went through, let me know...i have a bunch of pics from when i did my jeep....or if you have any questions let me know....i also learned alot about spraying the stuff on vs. rolling on.....anyways...hope this helps a bit...
ORIGINAL: JonBrown

That looks Fing sick man!! how much did it cost and how long did it take?
sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet.

That looks Fing sick man!! how much did it cost and how long did it take?
sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet.
So the Line-x by my work quoted me $350 for the matt finish, plus another $159 for a gloss. I believe paint was even more.[&:]
I'm gonna try and stop by rhino lining tonight to see what they quote me. If all else fails i'm going for the matt black and doing the whole bike.
I'm gonna try and stop by rhino lining tonight to see what they quote me. If all else fails i'm going for the matt black and doing the whole bike.



