Yea I know this is old but figured I should bring it back up. I used this latch and it works well. I went and look at every car in the junkyard and this is the best latch to do this TRUST ME !!!!!!!!!. I put my button up front on the intake covers and used a spring so mines pop up instead on me pulling it up.

 

I did mine when installing my homemade fender eliminator because I didn't want to figure out how to relocate the keyhole. Lazy? Maybe. This is a generic kit I found for about $23. I like it because the motor is pretty small and I was able to mount it outside of the glove box so it's hidden by the rear fairing but doesn't take up any glove box space. The mount that is screwed to the plastic goes straight up in this picture. Not sure if this pic will do the install justice, but you may get the idea.

 

Where did you find said generic kit?

 

I don't remember which online retailer I used, but the Interweb is an amazing place to find things. Try a Google search for electric trunk release.

 

Bumping this because I'm frustrated with it! I blew so many fuses doing this today! I was testing to see at what point do I stop blowing fuses, and 30amp was the number, however after just a quick test of pushing the button and I had smoke coming out of my actuator! Any one able to help me trouble shoot this?

 

Gotta subscribe as this was exactly what I needed for an idea to a problem I've been struggling with my Daytona project, the driver seat is a bolt-on which is unscrewed through the passenger seat which comes off with the key, the problem is I got a single seat tail and there is absolutely NO access to the driver seat bolts from anywhere so gonna do something like this and put the button where the (jammed) passenger seat lock now sits.

auh sorry no idea why it's burning your fuses. Only things that come to mind is are you sure the actuator is intact? And 12v? Cause if it's a 24v you'd need double the amps to power it which it might not like. Basically it's just a dumb single coil so a short somewhere in the layers is a viable option. Specially if you've got it smoking and have burned the protective lacquer from the wire.

 

It's an actuator out of a 99 escort just like the original post says. However I did accidentally buy a 24v switch. Could that have fried my actuator?

 

No. A switch is a switch no matter if it's 600v it's just the max current it can take.