Y anchor ftw!!
Retired Super Moderator - At large E=MC2
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 2,299
Likes: 4
From: Tulsa,OK
Basically the hole needs to be as wide/long as the top of the anchor.
You'll need to widen perpendiculaly at the center to accomodate the cross-pin.
If you are mounting in a slab you'll want to be fairly close, just to avoid
extra work. Leave just enough room to back-fill the concrete.
If you are mounting it in the ground, I'd do a hole about a foot bigger in
dia than the length of the top, about 6" deeper than it is tall. Then drive a
couple of pieces of re-bar at opposing angles in the bottom of the hole,
leaving about 4-5 inches out of the dirt. Level the whole assembly (flush to
the ground) and back-fill concrete around the re-bar/anchor to full.
If you wire a board on top of the mouth that's wider than the hole, that will
support it till the concrete sets. Then just nip the wire off flush to the new slab.
These are best used in a rain/water sheltered place as there is no way to
drain any water that accumulates in it.
Ern
You'll need to widen perpendiculaly at the center to accomodate the cross-pin.
If you are mounting in a slab you'll want to be fairly close, just to avoid
extra work. Leave just enough room to back-fill the concrete.
If you are mounting it in the ground, I'd do a hole about a foot bigger in
dia than the length of the top, about 6" deeper than it is tall. Then drive a
couple of pieces of re-bar at opposing angles in the bottom of the hole,
leaving about 4-5 inches out of the dirt. Level the whole assembly (flush to
the ground) and back-fill concrete around the re-bar/anchor to full.
If you wire a board on top of the mouth that's wider than the hole, that will
support it till the concrete sets. Then just nip the wire off flush to the new slab.
These are best used in a rain/water sheltered place as there is no way to
drain any water that accumulates in it.
Ern
Last edited by MadHattr059; Oct 14, 2011 at 06:45 PM.
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Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 225
Likes: 0
From: Chi-town burbs
Could u like draw what u mean, like specs on a paint document that would really help, im not sure what you mean by rebar. Are there any similiar items sold in the US to this? Also, its going to be one the side of my house. Thats kinda sheltered I guess. Plus they tell you its got a hole on the bottom to let it drain idk how well that'll work.
What I planned on doing was just digging a hole bigger than this thing and filling concrete around it. I like the rebar idea just dont fully understand it.
What I planned on doing was just digging a hole bigger than this thing and filling concrete around it. I like the rebar idea just dont fully understand it.
Super Moderator
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,304
Likes: 512
From: South Florida, USA
Ern's instructions seemed to be right on. Rebar is short for Reinforcing Bar. It's steel bars with a bumpy pattern on it that helps add strength to concrete. The bumps help the concrete "Grip" the steel. You can pick it up at most building supply places like Home Depot and Lowes. This is what it looks like. I'm sure you recognize it now.
Retired Super Moderator - At large E=MC2
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 2,299
Likes: 4
From: Tulsa,OK
If you wanna go inexpensively... Buy a length of chain, dig a hole. Get a 4 foot piece
of rebar and bend it into a giant staple. lay the middle of the chain in the hole, drive
the staple on top of it, down into the bottom of the hole. Fill the hole with the chain
drapped out of the edges. Mound the concrete slightly, to shed water and you are
done. The product you are looking at is designed for a garage floor, so it will not have
anything above floor level.
Ern
of rebar and bend it into a giant staple. lay the middle of the chain in the hole, drive
the staple on top of it, down into the bottom of the hole. Fill the hole with the chain
drapped out of the edges. Mound the concrete slightly, to shed water and you are
done. The product you are looking at is designed for a garage floor, so it will not have
anything above floor level.
Ern
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