74demon,

did you bring up the rectifier problem up because you think when the battery is fully charged the bike starts but the problem may be it isn't charging it back when it's running?

No, I don't have it yet.

 

I think it's not charging the battery. The bike is uses power when it's running and it will run out if it's not charged back up.

The stator makes the power.
The battery stores it.
The R/R regulates the process.

 

Thanks a lot! I'll get into it this weekend and post it here if it cured it or not.

 

74 demon, will this be good enough?
https://www.walmart.com/ip/UNIQUE-BA...splay/49312746

 

More than good enough.

 

When you get a multi meter. Check voltage at 5000 rpm as dusgust. If all ok just check it at about 7-8000 rpm. I had one on same bike and it was charging at 5-6-7000 rpm but dropped down to 10 volts above 8k revs. I found this out two batteries later and by accident. Let us know.

 

I think I figured out what's the problem! So, it's been a few days and I've been really busy to get and I've been too lazy to get a multimeter! So I put the battery back to charging (was sitting on my table for a couple of days), so it should be fully charged right? because that's how I left it but no, the level has dropped to less than 80%! (I don't know how much exactly because yellow light means anything from 0-80%) I guess the battery's not holding charge right?

 

It could be a bad battery, but without a voltmeter it is just guessing....

 

Take the battery to Autozone and get it loadtested. Most likely itll fail. As the only time you use the battery is to start it, it lasts a couple weeks then dies. Hitting the horn before starting the bike is a type of load test, and it killed the battery.
Most likely there is a bunch of sediment at the bottom of the battery shorting the plates. Im assuming you've checked that the battery isn't low on fluid exposing the plates to atmo.
Im pretty sure for $45, and 20min of your time, problem solved with a new battery. Or spend a few extra to get one of those new NiCad ones that weigh much less and are much smaller, better all around, especially if hooking up a charger port to your bike.

 

Do not add fluid to your battery.

Motorcycle batteries should be sealed or dry cell/AGM.