@ demon- I have the big wire on the starter disconnected from battery right now, honestly not sure where to connect it to completely..

The big wire goes to the battery, and the other side to the starter. When the relay clicks, if it's working properly, it completes the circuit to the starter. You must have 12v constant on the battery side, and 12v on the starter side when it engages. It's more than a "relay", it's more the starter solenoid. It clicks, so the trigger side is good. It's either not connecting the power on the big cables, or you dont have enough voltage to turn the starter.

 

demon, is there extra draw with the starter solenoid hooked up? kind of like a parasitic loss of power to get the starter to turn.

 

Shouldn't have one. The relay just completes the circuit.

 

that's what i thought, but i wasn't sure

 

Ok so, I attempted to bypas the starter sylinoid by connecting a wire to both sides of the silynoid (sp?) and attempted to start it... Still no fire just a single click that I can now feel as I hold the wire. Is that the silynoid then? Is there a way to bypass that all together to be sure of this theory?

 

Didnt realize there was a page 2 before I replied.. So what are you suggesting? When u say its not connecting power, as if that "relay" also? Or just not enough power pushing it all together?

 

what happens is, it's a magnet. so when you click the starter, the magnet slide in the relay lifts and connects the 2 poles together to make the circuit. when you release the starter button, it releases, and the two poles aren't connected anymore so the starter motor stops getting juice.

clicking is a symptom of a bad one. it's a cheap component that will go bad over time. so if anything happens (it corrodes, something breaks internally), you'll get the click (which is the slide trying to work), but the connection is never made.

when you touched the starter wire to the pos on the battery - the starter motor worked. therefore, it's the relay causing the problem

 

We'll alright, changed out that cyliniod.... And my Honda lives again! That y'all for all the help!

While I'm here.. I originally cracked down the motor because when is give it any hard amount of throttle, no matter what gear I was in it would jump out if gear. I broke down the motor and as I did some metal chunks came out that looked like gear pieces. We'll I checked every gear and did A good look over, didnt see anything abnormal. The timing ended up being pretty far off so that was fixed, had some nasty spark plugs that I replaced, and I threw a new clutch in it. Now that its finally together, I test rode it... And 2nd and 5th gear will jump out into neutral when I give it hard throttle. When I had it apart everything looked ok, gears, shift forks, all the rods and really nothing looked bad or out of place. Any ideas what would cause it to jump out of gear like that?

 

So it's jumping out of gear into a false neutral in 5th? That's bad synchros, I think. If you had metal coming out of the tranny in pieces, I guarantee you something in there's broken. I think you might be at the point where you replace the gear set.

 

worn shift drum and worn cogs cause it to slip out of gear.

trannies are a bitch - i took apart a 954 motor that had a couple gears literally disintegrate in there. it ran through the whole motor and destroyed everything - mains and rod bearings, cyl walls, chewed pistons up pretty bad, etc. that's nothing to mess with.

anyways, it depends on how it slips out of gear. the fact that it's 2nd and 5th tells me one of the cogs is probably worn too much. it pops out of gear when you're in 2nd - and when you roll on throttle it'll pop out, right? and i think those two gear combos share one of the same gears right? there are spec limits for the gears themselves that you can measure (i'm sure that's exactly what you want to hear as you just got the motor back together isn't it?)


if it would pop out as soon as you shifted into 2nd or 5th i'd say shift drum