A buddy of mine suggested lowering the idle as it seemed a little high and after some tinkering it is now stuck on 1k rpm and not responding to any further adjustments to the idle screw. I've searched for this problem on the forum and have seen that a few others have come across this problem. After some reading I see it should be 1300 +/- 100. My Clymer manual for my '06 just got here so I think I should be able to fix this myself. Is there any particular reason you guys suggest taking it to a shop rather than trying to fix it yourself other than it being a hassle? Is there anything I should be looking out for if I jump into this project of fixing my idle adjustment? I've seen people suggest getting the actual honda manual in addition to the service/repair manual so I'll see about getting one of those as well. Anyone that's encountered this issue know the best way to go about fixing the it? By the way it's an '06 cbr600rr. Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

To answer you questions in order:

the only reason to take it to a shop is you are too lazy /not comfortable doing the work yourself.

You should be looking for having a great time learning more about your bike then your average rider!! Other then that you might get the bug.

You can download the service manual for free and them print it out or keep it as a pdf. I recommend having both manuals as one may describe how to do something better then the other.

I don't own a rr but there are many who do so no matter what you will get the help you need! Oh and welcome to the forum its a great place and many find that they stick around for a lot more then just bikes!!

 

CJardine,
Thank you for your reply. It didn't seem that complicated from some of the brief explanations on some of the threads I've read, but they didn't go into much detail. Hopefully I don't have to have it torn apart too long as I've only had it for a week on Friday and I'm getting in a lot of good riding time. I've read that sometimes the cable can either break or just come unattached. I'm hoping for the latter. I'm a DIY'er and definitely enjoy learning more about my bike. I have actually been regularly reading the Clymer manual since I've gotten it just to get a better idea of how the bike works. I will try and download that service manual online and add it to the library. Although I haven't posted much, I have been searching and reading various threads and learned so much already from the community and hope to add to the discussion once I learn enough to do so. Thanks again.

 

If that doesn't work then the idle adjust cable is probably broken, as is most likely the case in the video below. Comments after the video say it is about $20 to replace the cable.

 

The videos were very helpful RoadiJeff. I guess I'll call around to some shops tomorrow and see how much they charge for a new cable. If it's much more than the $20 you mentioned then I'll see about ordering one online. I'd definitely like to have this fixed soon. It's odd though. My bike seems to have a more steady idle than the videos you posted.

 

Check at Honda East Toledo. I think the part # you need is 16029-MEE-003 but verify that first. They have it for $16.51.

 

Thanks for the info. I may end up buying that part and from the looks of it that seems to be the cheapest I've seen so far. I changed my air filter last night and since I had the gas tank pulled back I did some fiddling with the idle adjustment cable. Which was a b*tch to get to by the way. With the limited view that I had of where the cable attached to the throttle body I could see the spring and the screw that went into the throttle body. It seemed that the hose/cable had come loose a little and I was able to push it back on. After that when I turned the idled adjustment screw I could see the spring and the screw next to the throttle body moving and it seemed to feel tighter and stop turning once I turned it to the right for a bit. I did not feel the same tightness to the left after several turns. Once I got the bike back together and ran it for a while to get up to running temp I tried to adjust the idle to its proper rpm with no noticeable change taking place. So I'm wondering if this confirms that the cable is broken. I would think that I wouldn't see the screw/spring turning if that was the case. I'm just curious what you guys think and what your next course of action would be? If I end up getting the cable I'm wondering how I'll be able to get it connected to the throttle body in such a tight space. I'm not really sure what I can and can't disconnect to get to it seeing as the service manual I bought doesn't cover replacing the cable. Thanks for taking the time to read this and any input you might have to offer.

 

Here are a couple of threads on the idle speed cable. SOme have pics that may help with the cable replacement.

Idle Adjustment Cable Help

Idle Adjust Cable

 

Ok, About the cable. First, it is not an encased cable like most people think it would be. The entire cable turns even the outer portion accept for the white collar where it mounts in the clip that holds it to the coolant hose, it is like long stiff spring with a screw on the end (there is a small tension spring on the throttle body end).

With the throttle bodies out and the cable straight that cable will likely turn very easy. With it in its natural position on the bike it is very difficult to turn even though there is NOTHING wrong with the cable. Every one i have touched has been like this.

That feeling you have where it stops, is normal.. turn it past it.. slowly.. with the engine running warm.. and the rpms will rise. It's normally tight and feels like its going to break something off if you ask me.

Solution: Warm the bike up first. The wax unit controls the idle until its warm, then the idle adjust cable comes into play. Remove the cable from the plastic clamp where it is stowed and do your best to straighten it out to attempt to adjust it. If it doesn't turn then you will want to spray a small amount of penetrating oil on the screw at the end of the cable with the spring on it, located at the throttle body. This means you will have to either spray and pray with a little red straw.. and clean the mess, or remove your air cleaner housing and get to it from the top.

It is still going to be tough to adjust. It's not something that is meant to be adjusted all of the time and I am sure honda didn't want it falling out. It is there to compensate for valve train wear and adjustments primarily.

 

You were in fact correct Bryce. After a little ride today I pulled over to a park and started turning it again past that point where it felt like it wanted to stop and it worked. Now my idle is within the limits of what's stated in the manual. Thanks to everyone that took the time to reply and help me solve this problem. I got it fixed and in the process learned a lot about my bike. I'll make sure I know what's going on before I go adjusting things.