Too scared to ride my bike.. Help!!
#11
Re-using a clip on a master-link is a no-no. The only time, imo, it is acceptable is to
get to where you can replace the clip...i.e. emergency only, stuck on the side of the road.
The above comment about stress is correct. The clip-type master-links are only dealing
with a light, side-load on the clip itself. The keeper part of the link carries all of the
torque-load. I prefer a riveted link, but folks have put millions of miles on clipped
chains without it being an issue, when done correctly.
The link's clip should be with the closed part pointed into the direction of travel.
i.e. the head of the clip is towards the front of the bike and the open end is to the rear,
on the top run of the chain.
I'm not sure if Kuro's been spoiled with a single-sided swing-arm, never owned one
of those. But, I'm pretty sure my F3 has to have the chain broken to get around the
swing-arm pivot. So, wether you pull the front sprocket or not, you can't mount/dis-mount
it intact.
As far as using a riveted ML, either pay the man or get the correct tool. Under OR
over-crimpng the rivets can cause failure. The only (again, imo) way to ensure that
... is with a riviting tool.
I recommend having a certified mechanic inspect your first effort with a riveted chain, to be sure it was done correctly.
My dealer didn't mind doing that for free, since I buy enough stuff from him.
It would still be worth it to throw $5-$10 at them, just for piece of mind, though.
You got lucky, a broken chain can do one of three things...
wrap the rear wheel and lock it up
cram around the front sprocket and crack the cases
lay itself out on the road behind you
Tip your hat, offer a prayer or whatever you do to acknowledge your higher being(s).
He/She/It were watching out for you. ;-)
Hope this helps, Ern
get to where you can replace the clip...i.e. emergency only, stuck on the side of the road.
The above comment about stress is correct. The clip-type master-links are only dealing
with a light, side-load on the clip itself. The keeper part of the link carries all of the
torque-load. I prefer a riveted link, but folks have put millions of miles on clipped
chains without it being an issue, when done correctly.
The link's clip should be with the closed part pointed into the direction of travel.
i.e. the head of the clip is towards the front of the bike and the open end is to the rear,
on the top run of the chain.
I'm not sure if Kuro's been spoiled with a single-sided swing-arm, never owned one
of those. But, I'm pretty sure my F3 has to have the chain broken to get around the
swing-arm pivot. So, wether you pull the front sprocket or not, you can't mount/dis-mount
it intact.
As far as using a riveted ML, either pay the man or get the correct tool. Under OR
over-crimpng the rivets can cause failure. The only (again, imo) way to ensure that
... is with a riviting tool.
I recommend having a certified mechanic inspect your first effort with a riveted chain, to be sure it was done correctly.
My dealer didn't mind doing that for free, since I buy enough stuff from him.
It would still be worth it to throw $5-$10 at them, just for piece of mind, though.
You got lucky, a broken chain can do one of three things...
wrap the rear wheel and lock it up
cram around the front sprocket and crack the cases
lay itself out on the road behind you
Tip your hat, offer a prayer or whatever you do to acknowledge your higher being(s).
He/She/It were watching out for you. ;-)
Hope this helps, Ern
#12
Quit messing around w/ pliers or other tools that aren't the right tools for the job. Follow proper chain & master-link installation procedure (see the service manual - links to online version here on the forum). Then, you're sure & confident about what you're riding on.
*Get a rivet-type master-link.
*Get a chain installation kit. This is the one I use... STOCKTON TOOL COMPANY Chain Breaker and Rivet Tool Kit - Parts & Accessories - Cycle Gear. Its often on sale at CG for $39.99.
*Install new master-link.
*Flare/stake the master-link pins to service manual spec...typically 0.217-0.230 in. (see service manual for your bike).
Done. No more worries.
*Get a rivet-type master-link.
*Get a chain installation kit. This is the one I use... STOCKTON TOOL COMPANY Chain Breaker and Rivet Tool Kit - Parts & Accessories - Cycle Gear. Its often on sale at CG for $39.99.
*Install new master-link.
*Flare/stake the master-link pins to service manual spec...typically 0.217-0.230 in. (see service manual for your bike).
Done. No more worries.
#13
Im with Ern, you got lucky for sure. Go to your mechanic or any shop, and ask them to take a look at it. They will tell you if its okay or not. Im a clip guy myself, and ive have no problems with them. But if you feel unsafe about it, putt your *** over to the mechanic and have them reassure you so you can get tearing down the road again.
It sucks not being able to open it up. The bike i built i cant currently rip open due to a sprocket failure (wrong size chain with wrong sprokets = tearing off all the teeth XD woops) if i give it any more then half throttle the chain just spins around the sprocket (talk about a scary sound and feeling)
Now stop reading and get riding.
It sucks not being able to open it up. The bike i built i cant currently rip open due to a sprocket failure (wrong size chain with wrong sprokets = tearing off all the teeth XD woops) if i give it any more then half throttle the chain just spins around the sprocket (talk about a scary sound and feeling)
Now stop reading and get riding.
#14
Ever had your chain fly off on the freeway? I won't be jury rIgging any master links in my life with pliers and hammers and stuff haha. I appreciate your advice.
Still not clear on whether or not it's ok to remove the clip, get some silicone on there and re-use the same clip though
Still not clear on whether or not it's ok to remove the clip, get some silicone on there and re-use the same clip though
Wait.... thats probably not helping. Sorry.
How about posting a pic of the link installed so we can see if anything looks off. Maybe we can put this to bed either way for sure once and for all.
There's no problem IMO, of re-using the same brand 'new' clip if need be.
Last edited by zaqwert6; 05-26-2012 at 07:22 PM.
#15
I hear yea, I actually had one come off on a drag strip after a 250hp/7K rpm launch. The chain peeled off, teared thru an aluminum chain guard and then thru the fiberglass body work.
Wait.... thats probably not helping. Sorry.
How about posting a pic of the link installed so we can see if anything looks off. Maybe we can put this to bed either way for sure once and for all.
There's no problem IMO, of re-using the same brand 'new' clip if need be.
Wait.... thats probably not helping. Sorry.
How about posting a pic of the link installed so we can see if anything looks off. Maybe we can put this to bed either way for sure once and for all.
There's no problem IMO, of re-using the same brand 'new' clip if need be.
#16
#17
if you lost it in the freeway i wouldnt put it back on bike
a chain is cheap enough so you can replace it.
you can get a good set online for a few bucks. or get one from a dealer if you dont want to wait.
you can pop the chain together then put it on the bike, just more work, need to take the back wheel off and remove the front sproket, put the chain in and then put the front one back on. then put the rear wheel on around the chain.
its a bit tricky but can be done.
or forget about your pride and take it in to get done properly
at least this way you know its safe
a chain is cheap enough so you can replace it.
you can get a good set online for a few bucks. or get one from a dealer if you dont want to wait.
you can pop the chain together then put it on the bike, just more work, need to take the back wheel off and remove the front sproket, put the chain in and then put the front one back on. then put the rear wheel on around the chain.
its a bit tricky but can be done.
or forget about your pride and take it in to get done properly
at least this way you know its safe
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