Umm... Thanks for the negative down play and also no thanks for your advertisement. Having a stuck Termostat, bad fan, and/or a clogged radiator could definately be the problem and these can be fixed easily. Some lil new chemical in a bottle will not fix these problems or symptoms. Thank you have a good day.

 

This is not entirely accurate. If you used a test probe that tells you if there is power present, and it showed power at the connector on the sensor, then that doesn't mean the sensor is working. It's actually not a sensor, but a Thermo-Switch. When the Thermo-Switch turns on, you actually shouldn't read any power present on the connector of the Thermo-Switch. This is because the Thermo-Switch is on the ground side of the fan circuit. When the switch is open, you will read power, but as soon as it closes, that circuit effectively becomes grounded and no power reading. A way to test if your fan works or not is to ground the wire on the Thermo-Switch to the frame of the bike. The fan should turn on. If it does, then the Thermo-Switch is most likely bad. If it doesn't turn on, then you'd have a bad fan.

I hope this makes sense.

 

Ok, well I understand that there is more to it than I thought but it's still kinda muddy. The closed/open thing kinda got my confused. So which wire should I ground? Could I just take the fan off and just touch the wires on a battery or something and then if it spins I'll know its the switch right? If it doesn't spin I'll know that it is the fan! Am I correct here?

 

Hey man. I'm sorry. I misunderstood your post here. I thought you meant the things we were talking about wasn't the solution to my problem. I didn't put it together with the coolant stuff. I apologize. And thanks for the advice. I might try it once I get the other stuff lined out!

 

On the Thermo-Switch that is on the back of the radiator, there is one wire attached to it. If you take that wire and ground it to the frame by any method of your choosing, the fan should start spinning. Now when I say ground it to the frame, I mean that it must be a bare metal part of the frame. If it's painted, you won't make contact and the fan wouldn't run giving you the impression the fan was bad. If you like you could take a piece of wire and go from the battery negative (-) terminal and touch it to where the wire attaches to the thermo-switch. I say momentarily because you just want to test the operation of the fan, not run it for any period of time. Taking the fan off would probably be more of a hassle than just grounding the lead on the thermo-switch, but yes you could do that.

Good luck, I hope you get it figured out.

PS
When someone talks about a switch or relay being open or closed this is what they mean. If a switch is in a closed state, then it will allow the flow of electricity from one side of the switch to the other. If it's open, then it will not pass electricity. A switch or relay's contacts can be described as being either normally open or normally closed. And what that means is when the switch is in a relaxed state (meaning you're not pressing it), the electrical contacts are either open or closed. An example would be the Starter Switch on your handle bars. That switch has 2 sets of contacts. It has a set of normally open contacts and a set of normally closed contacts. When you press the Starter Switch, the normally open contacts will close, and the normally closed contacts will open. In this case, power to the headlight routes through the normally closed contacts of the starter switch. So long as you're not pressing the starter switch, the headlight can have power. As soon as you press the Starter Switch, the normally closed contacts open, and that turns the headlight off. At the same time, the normally open contacts on that Starter Switch will close. This then provides power to the starter relay.

Does any of this make sense ?

 

Lol! yeah that makes sense to me now! Thanks for all of the help man! I will try to work on it this weekend, and if I have any problems or questions I will ask. Thanks again man!