I use Rotella T6 (blue container)

 

I used motul 5100 but was thinking of going to full synthetic for the spring. I don't use dinosaur bones in my CRV or my 5.0 either. I just bought the f4i and could only get the Motul when I changed it to put it away for the winter.....so I'll probably run it for a few days in the spring and change it. Is the mobil1 you guys are talking about the MX4T?

 

I have Rotella T6 in now, but will change over to Renewable Lube's 5W40HD this coming year. I'll be running an Auto-RX treatment first, though.

 

Thanks All.

XRicer - I have seen a lot of research that says half synthetic blends are pointless, as the downsides of dino oil are still there.

There are a ton of Youtube videos about independant tests of Royal Purple. They tested against factory synthetics and on an american air cooled VTwin, the average engine temps were about 25 degrees cooler, significant in my opinion.

 

It has to do with oil leaks if convetional oil has been used for a number of years in an older engine and it is then switched to synthetic. I don't think the OP has anything to be concerned with but switching back and forth depends on the application.

Conventional versus Synthetic

You’ll want to be careful however, if you do decide that you want to give synthetic oils a try. If you’ve been driving your 1983 Ford Thunderbird for years using 10W30, you may not want to switch using your conventional oil brand.

Conventional oils have solvents that stick to gaskets and seals and often cause them to swell a certain way. These gaskets and seals have been used to the same oil for years and the switch to any other type of oil (whether it is to a different conventional oil brand, or an upgrade to a synthetic) may be harmful. The oil you change (or upgrade to) will also have solvents and additives, different from the original.

So in other terms, the changing of oils could result in oil leaks and/or a once small oil leak becoming bigger due to the reaction the seals and gaskets will have to the change (not because of the oil itself). If you think that this might be the case for you (i.e. if you have an older car using conventional oil), it’s recommended that you not try synthetic oil until you have an engine (or new car) with relatively virgin gaskets and seals that will be able to acclimate much more easily to the chemical changes of the newer type of oil.

 

heres another 'myth' i think is true, but all the cleaners in most synthetics will also remove some of the crud clogging(dragging) your engine, but that also means cleaning out any places that crud may have plugged a leak.

my 2001 sentra didnt start burning oil until i switched to synthetic at 110k. although it does literally run better at higher rpms, with the synthetic.

 

I run Mobil 1 racing 4T in my 02 CBR954 with no problems whatsoever. I would definately recommend the motorcycle specific oil since is designed to work with wet clutch applications. Standard motor oil does not have the friction modifiers it needs.

 

The only issues that I have herd of, is with older cars. Like I have a muscle car and was told to keep using mineral oil because synthetic oil will loosen the dirt or smudge that builds up around the seals and possibly cause the seals to leak. But were talking old old cars. I have switched back and forth with my dirt bike no problems. Your bike will love you for the switch. I use Shell Rotella 5w-40 syn. It is really a refined mineral oil with some great stuff added to it. And it cost around 20.00$ a gallon. I change my oil every 1500-2000 miles. I am a little ****. However test show that it holds up better than most oils after thousands of miles, but since my blade transmission uses the same oil as the engine and oil is cheap why not. The oil also sticks to all of the engine and moving parts. I took my iol pan off the other day and at 27,000, there are no signs of wear what so ever. Just my two cents!

 

yea you can switch but once you go synthetic you cant go back because of the molecular compound used in it it puts a nmice glazing on the cylinder wall and if you go back to refgular it will deteriorate the protective glazing

 

Forgive me for feeling that I have to put it this way: That's truly garbage misinformation, and must not be repeated. Whoever made that up, just plain made it up. It's not correct, it's not remotely similar to anything that happens, and the notion that one can't freely switch between 'synthetic' and 'non-synthetic' is completely bogus.