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Sounds wrong from 2k - 5k rpms

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  #1  
Old 06-06-2010, 09:45 AM
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Default Sounds wrong from 2k - 5k rpms

My bike sounds fine and idles fine and revs fine until i ride away on it. then from 2k - 5k rps it just sounds kind of boggy and like its just putting along. there is no lack of throttle response that i noticed. it doesnt close to dieing die, and she wont die out when i come to a stop or anything. and after 5k she sounds perfect and runs great. sometimes the sound seems to go away a little bit so sometimes its not so bad but its always there throughout that range of rpms regaurdless of what gear im in.

I just balanced and cleaned my carbs and i really dont feel like taking it all back apart till i get an idea of what could be causing this

only thing ive noticed is that my idle is kind of fidgety i have to tu rn it up until she warms up then ill have to turn it back down and adjust it here and there at stop signs red light etc to get it to stay at 1200.

btw mods i have a similar thread posted in f3 section but it has moved onto the second page. feel free to delete i would have deleted it if i could.
 

Last edited by Michaud85; 06-06-2010 at 03:29 PM.
  #2  
Old 06-06-2010, 06:15 PM
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Are you sure its rpm sensitive and not Throttle postion sensitive?

I know you just synced the carbs. But it almost sounds like out of sync carbs. Once your under way, out of sync carbs will be fine. its usually at lower rpms and idle that out of sync carbs are more noticable.

Another thing, is the pilot jets may be out of adjustment. They control the fueling until around 1/8 throttle, then the main jet begins to take over. The more throttle that is applied, the less the pilot jet has to do with the fueling.

Do you have all of the hoses secure on the air box?

The other thing I would lean towards is a bad coil. It could be weak and not firing consistantly at low rpms, but clear up once the rpms get higher. Although, coils will usually be fine down low and fault up in higher rpms... but anything is possible. I think at the very least I would measure the restistance on the coils and make sure they are in spec.

Sorry for the bad luck. I really don't know what else it could be.
 
  #3  
Old 06-06-2010, 06:24 PM
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thanks squid thats a bunch of things i could check...

im not sure if its throttle position sensitive man... i guess i could take her for a spin and see if i notice that.

i know my jets have not been adjusted at all.. i just shot compressed air through them after squirting carb cleaner in there to clean them.

maybe theres an air hose loose... i know that i lost one screw that screws into the top of the airbox dont know if that would have an effect.

another thing is that when i was syncing the carbs i lost the clip to one of the adapter covers so i just gave it a real tight zip tie hopefully thats on there

and it was such a pain in the *** to sync the carbs and get them all just right.. i guess i have to take the whole damn thing apart again so i might as well just do everything

my spark plugs are brand new, and i dont know how i would check a coil to see if it was bad

anyone care to tell me how to check if a coil has gone bad?
 

Last edited by Michaud85; 06-06-2010 at 06:27 PM.
  #4  
Old 06-06-2010, 09:03 PM
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Im not sure what resistance should be on your particular coil pack. You can check them by measuring what the resistance is in ohms across the leads with a mulit-meter. There is a range that they should fall into. if you have a service manual, the spec should be in there. Also, a call to a dealership may give you the right spec.

As for the pilot jets. It could be there crap plugging them up. If you cleaned the rest of the carb, but didnt remove them, crap could have lodged itself in the pilot jet port. One simple way to check to see if one carb is running lean at idle would be to start the bike, let it warm just bit and then squirt water on each header. if one header is substantially cooler than the others, than that carb more than likely has an issue, potentially with a plugged pilot jet.

I dont think a missing screw is going to affect anything. Im not so sure about the zip tie thing though. zip ties generally don't give a good 360 seal, and usually where the tie meets itself it will bunch up and could pose a leaking issue. but it all depends on what your trying to seal.
 
  #5  
Old 06-09-2010, 01:25 PM
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do you think that theres anwa it could be valve clearances?

its not zee coils i checked zee resitances and zey are gooood
 

Last edited by Michaud85; 06-09-2010 at 02:10 PM.
  #6  
Old 06-09-2010, 08:21 PM
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Anything is possible. But valve symptoms will usually gradually get worse over thousands of miles, not just all of sudden.

I still think either your not synced right, or your pilot jets are plugged. I'd at the very least pull the pilot jets and check them. Also, you can check where they are set. If anyone before you adjusted them, they could have adjusted them incorrectly. Plus, since you didnt pull them, there was no way they got cleaned, and the ports more than likley are plugged on one or more of the carbs.

the other problem, is if you had a plugged or mis adjusted pilot jet, your sync will not be correct. Syncing the carbs is adjusting the carbs to be ballanced vaccum between each other, but if one is not putting gas in the cylinder, the vaccum for that port will not what it should be.

My suggestion, and your not gonna like it. Is to pull the pilot jets, clean them and the ports, adjust them where they should be, and resync the rack. Im not sure if your carbs have the D-shaped pilot jet, or just the flat head screw. But they sell long handled pilot jet tools that allow you to reach them with the carbs still on the bike. You'll have to check a manual where the pilot jets should be. But usually, 1 1/2 turns out is a good starting point.

having said that, it could be your valves have tightened up too much as well. But it really sounds like a pilot jet or sync issue to me.
 
  #7  
Old 06-09-2010, 08:26 PM
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the other thing I just noticed, is you have a K&N filter on. Did you rejet for it?

Usually, you can get away with a highflow airfliter by itself, or a slip on by itself, but together, usually requires a jet kit.

It may even be that the needle in the carb needs to be raised. this will allow the main jet to take over sooner. You may be running lean on the low end. But also, increasing your pilot jet turns out will allow more gas flow down low as well.
 
  #8  
Old 06-10-2010, 04:58 PM
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you could also just b nuts... i mean u did switch to a french accent mid post
 
  #9  
Old 06-12-2010, 06:52 PM
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squidman you the best i cleaned my carbs again today this time i took out the pilot jets squirted em with b12 and shot the compresed air through and i also unscrewed all the other jets and did the same.

put her back together took fired her up and she idles perfectly now its not jumpy at all and better yet.. i took her out for a little test spin probs about 1-2 miles and she sounded just great.. it was raining so i didnt get to bring her on the highway but theres always tommorow.

thanks again squid, just goes to show that even tho you think what ur about to tell someone to try might be common sense or they already know. they might not and its worth suggesting anyway.

the best part i dont have to check my valve clearances WoOo HoOo. So lets hope she stay running well for a long time.
 

Last edited by Michaud85; 06-12-2010 at 06:54 PM.
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