That's a good start Bro , check the ignition switch also as its a Kill switch too,,so to speak . Put a 2 amp charge on the battery and check the battery for a 12.3 -12.7 full charge with the multimeter . The pulsing cluster is the regulator compensating for the output of the battery , its normal for it to do that with a battery showing a discharge . Change out the battery with a new one if the pulsing continues . There is a way to test the regulator if this continues to discharge . If you have a new battery in it already , the regulator is most times the culprit . Your problem doesn't seem to be a charging problem at the moment as I could go into the alternator , pulse gen , pickup etc. Lets get it fired up 1st and look at the rest later. Something is preventing it from firing ,,look at the timing 1st bro ,, there's a "T" on the flywheel hub and a lineup mark on the cam gear ..look to see if they are lined up at top dead center for each cylinder,,this is where a shop manual comes in. An idea if you feel the need to know what if,,,the timing is on??,,a small bit,,and I mean "small" amount of starting spray will tell if this is a fuel or ignition issue ,,a wee bit in each carb then try to start it ,,lets not set it on fire please ,ok? I believe if the coils are firing,,that's not the foremost problem . The fuel has to fire off at the right "timing" or you will pull your hair out with all this .Standing by,,for a little while till I go to bed. It's the weekend..I'm up late.

 

On both coils? WOW..that is low ,,whats the chance of out of range coils,,both at once. Ouch! Hope it all goes good for ya ,, I'm gonna go eat my late crow,,,err ,,,uummm dinner now.

 

the chances are pretty slim but hey . .i have seen crazier $hit

 

extra extra read all about it! i have extra problemes still . . . .i put the new coils on . . .and the bike is STIIIIIIIIIL doing the same stuff . . .30mph it just bogs and acts like it runs out of fuel . . and can barely keep it alive sometimes . . . .foolishly when i pulled the wires off the coil packs (plug wires) they had some rust on them which i beleive could be caused from an excessive gap in there . .could this be an issue? i have 20K on the bike . . .the guy said it crapped out on him like this randomly while he was riding and then sold it to me. . . . .honestly . . . .. i feel like curling up into a little ball and crying like an 8 year old girl . . im getting my a$$ handed to me by a motorcycle

 

If you haven't synced the carbs properly yet, your going to be chasing down a ghost the whole time. You'll never know if you fixed the original problem or not. I would strongly suggest getting them synced if you haven't done so.

Another thing you should try to determine is if its load related, rpm related, or throttle position related. generally, rpm related will lead towards ignition issues, throttle postion related will lead toward fuel delivery issues, and load related could be a combition of both that can be very hard to diagnosis.

The best thing you can do now is see if the condition is present in every gear once you hit a certain rpm, or if it happens with a certain throttle input. Also, see if the condition is worse once the bike gets warmed up. Some electrical components can really act up once they are hot.

since you have the multi-meter. Have you checked the voltage at the battery at idle, and at 4,000 rpms? Do this with the bike cold, and with it fully warmed up. As soon as you start the bike, it should be pulling near 15 volts if not a little above. Once its warmed up, it should still be pulling low 14 volts. Since you said in a earlier post your battery may be weak, I would get it load tested. Just about any auto parts store can do it. It will tell you if you have a shorted or weak cell in the battery. A shorted cell will still show proper voltage with a volt meter, but the battery will have the proper amps available for the higher demand of higher rpm driving. Even though its rare, a shorted cell can create all kinds of problems including higher rpm running issues.

 

its at certain speeds because at 30 mph it starts doing this if im easy on the bike i can shift up into all the other gears or shift down and it still acts up . . . .unless im smacking into it and slam thru this cluster F#$% probleme it will do fine but by then im doing 90 mph and i cant holdf that out to long to see how it does so i have to back off and as soon as i do it shuts off . . .it fires right back up though so idk lol

 

its the same cold or hot . . . .i swear its a fuel issue . .im going to prolly get a universal fuel pump the pushes out like 3-5 PSI and hook it up because it does this with gravity feed but when its acting up i can hold the throttle wide open with no change it just likes being difficult i guess