I just bought a 1996 cbr1000f this month and seen that it needs a new chain. The shop manual says it has a 530 chain with 114 links. I have looked on websites and they say it takes 120 links. I really don't want to buy a chain that is too short. Also my sprockets look pretty good but I was told years ago that the sprockets should be changed as well. Does anyone know where I can get the best chain at the best price? I am glad I found this forum, you cant know too much about your bike.

 

Welcome to the forum.
Normal chain is 114 link, 530 chain, but it depends if someone's fiddled with the sprockets, which should be 17F/41 or 17F/42 rear.
Changing sprockets is always a good idea, but if you're on a tight budget, see what mileage the bike has done on the current chain, and work from there. Front sprocket's a bit of a pig to replace, as you have to take off quite a few bits, including the clutch master unit. Replace with an X-link if you can afford it - well worth the difference.
Sorry, no help with pricing - don't know where you live.

 

Check P2 of the posts - 23/12/07 CHAIN QUESTION
Dragon had same question. Idodirt (thanks) explained it all in pictures, including your 114/120 link question.May help you.

 

Lilbear, I too was confused the first time I went looking to replace my chain. The shop manual is correct, the number of links for your bike (assuming no changes in the number of teeth on your sprockets) is 114. Chain manufacturers sell chains in standard lengths to try to cover most of the models. The chain is sold with 120 links and you or someone has to remove 6 of them so it then becomes 114 links long. It's not difficult to do, and pretty rewarding when you're done. Highly recomend the sprockets as well as the chain. Replacing one or the other can casue premeture wear on the new parts. A lot depends on the history of the bike and how you ride. There are special tools required for installing a rivited chain. You can buy the tools for much less than what you would pay a shop to replace your chain and sprockets.

 

Here is a handy reference chart:
http://www.drivesystemsusa.com/c/24062/1/honda.html

I just replaced my chain & sprockets on my 1990 CBR1000F & this is the best price I found. They cut the chain to 114 links for me:
http://www.starcycle.com/street.html


Be sure you have access to a chain press such as this one:
http://www.aerostich.com/catalog/US/...y-p-16859.html

Change the sprockets at the same time. Check you cush drive rubber while you are in there & replace the O-ring on the rear wheel as a preventitve measure & also check your wheel bearings. It is not a difficult job to do.

HTH & Good Luck

 

Thank you for your help! I got off my lazy butt and counted them to be safe. I also cleaned the chain plates in hopes of finding what size it was, but no luck, not marked. The rear sprocket is a 42 tooth so i assume it's stock. It looks like it's in pretty good shape though.
If i kept it lubed real good and adjusted corectly would'nt a standard chain work just as well ?
I have had o-ring chains in the past and they seem to have alot of issues. I live in central illinois and i have been looking for the best price on chains or even sets.

 

Standard chain is fine, just don't buy a cheaper type - the "no name" brand - they can't take the stresses. My x-link has been on the bike for 2 years, and I haven't had to adjust it....
yes, I know, I don't ride it hard enough.....but if you keep the chain clean and lube it regularly it should last a good distance. I'd never go back to a "standard" chain after the x-link.....

 

Is there any "rule of thumb" for changing the sprokets? For example, every second time you do the chain for good measure? I'm not sure what brand the chain is on mine. I know its a fairly new when I bought it last year. What is the advantages to a X-link chain opposed to a O ring chain? And one more item..... Does anyone have a reliable method of ensuring the rear sproket is in line with the front sproket. I know how to adjust it, but are the teeth of the sproket suppose to insert themselves into the chain at a perfect right angle? I've read that using the guage on the chain adjuster isnt always precise. Or does it really matter?

 

Many riders change sprockets whenever they change chains - I don't.
When the chain reaches its limit I inspect the sprockets and change when there is evidence of wear ("hooking" on the teeth, elongation of the distances between teeth etc)
As a guide - I changed my front sprocket about 2000 miles back, AFTER 25000 MILES - I haven't changed the rear sprocket in over 25000 miles ! The teeth still have square profiles, and the chain sits squarely on the teeth, very little movement.
YES I KNOW I DON'T RIDE IT HARD ENOUGH........!!!!
X Link chains seem to wear better - mine does.....
Perfect right angle between chain and sprocket is a MUST. Use a straight edge to check- a flat metal bar that you KNOW is straight will do. Clamping it to either sprocket helps to make sure everything is squarely aligned.
If it isn't your chain will wear very quickly, worst case scenario it comes off at speed or jams the rear wheel- NOT TO BE RECOMMENDED.
The gauge on the chain adjuster isn't precise, but when you adjust the chain, give each adjuster the identical number of turns, exactly, even down to quarter turns, remembering to turn both IN THE SAME DIRECTION ( I've made that mistake). Hope this helps.