Hello,
I need help. My 2005 CBR 1000 has a soft clutch, but no leaks at all. I tightened all the bolts, and then cleaned the fluid tank, and blead the system. Still soft and will not engage.
I have parts coming to rebuild the Master cylinder($30) and the Slave cylinder($5). I was planning on using my mity vac to bleed the system.
I been searching the web, and people say in order to bleed the system perfect ill have to bleed at the MC banjo bolt, then bleed at the Slave Banjo bolt, then bleed at the Slave Bleeder. Is this correct? Or should i just bleed at the Slave Bleeder?
Also it says ill have to re-tork the banjo bolts correctly...

Please help.

 

When you say , are you saying that the clutch is slipping while under acceleration ? Or are you saying that you're unable to disengage the clutch in order to make shifts ?

Having the bleed the brakes would be done if you're unable to disengage the clutch when you squeeze the clutch lever. If your bike is still trying to move forward while the bike is in gear and you have the clutch lever squeezed in.

If the clutch is slipping under load, then it's not a hydraulic problem.

 

I can get the bike into gear.
I start the bike in neutral, pull the clutch, go to shift to first, and it hops forward then stalls. I cannot engage the clutch in order to shift.
The clutch lever is soft.
I blead the clutch line and its still soft and will not engage. The system lost pressure. So im going to attempt to rebuild the Master Cylinder and Slave Cylinder. Im going to bleed the system at the bleeder nipple. Or should i bleed the system at all 3 locations( the master cylinder banjo bolt, then the banjo bolt at the slave cylinder, finally the bleeder nipple).?

 

You should only attempt to bleed the lines via the bleeder valve. Loosening the banjo bolts will only risk letting air in. If you have a vacuum pump, you can us that to draw the fluid down from master cylinder via the bleeder valve.

 

When you bled the brakes, did you get all the air out with no bubbles in the tube and did you have the tube immersed in some clean brake fluid in the catchment jar or bowl? If all was well then check the pads for the amount of material left on them, as if they are getting thin, this would mean the pistons are almost at full travel, making it more difficult to bleed the brakes. You could try pressing the pads inwards towards the pistons then wedge them in this position with some bits of wood pump the lever to trap the wood, then bleed the brakes again. I have bled the brakes on some of my bikes by just opening the bleed valve and letting the fluid dribble out, watching for air bubbles until they stop and then closing the bleed valve. Obviously I didn't squeeze the brake lever! Works every time, but I know it is not the orthodox way to do it. Other than that it does sound as if the seals in the master cylinder may be worn and possibly the master cylinder bore as well.

 

Actually its not the brakes. I was the clutch.
My mity vac came yesterday, i bled the CLUTCH system, and it is now fine.
Not sure how air got into the system to begin with, but its all good.

 

Don't know how I messed that one up! lol! Glad you got it sorted though-I'm off to Specsavers!