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Runs good sitting still, poor when on the road.

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Old Apr 21, 2011 | 09:30 PM
  #11  
Will.Bass's Avatar
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From: Jacksonville Beach, Fl
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are you sure your getting fuel from the tank? maybe the petcock is grimed and/or clogged?
 
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Old Apr 22, 2011 | 06:52 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Will.Bass
are you sure your getting fuel from the tank? maybe the petcock is grimed and/or clogged?
Mine dumps fuel yayyyyyyyy $4.50per gallon premium all over the grouuuuuund
 
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Old Apr 29, 2011 | 09:15 PM
  #13  
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hey there im still having issues but i just checked my coils and ohmed them out turned out they are wayyyyyyyyyyy no good . . .i would check those they have to be between 20-25 k Ohms with spark plug wires connected
 
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Old Apr 30, 2011 | 02:49 AM
  #14  
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Well, it isn't the regulator. That part has nothing to do with spark. The regulator ensures the voltage from the alternator remains stable to charge the battery. If the regulator goes, the battery will eventually go as well.

Did you clean out the fuel tank? Not sure on your bike, but mine has filters inside the tank as well. This sounds more like a fueling problem as well.

Also, how did you clean the carbs? I had a problem like this once on my 98 900RR and I had to disassemble the carbs and have them dipped to get all the gunk out. Once that was done, it ran fine.

Good luck.
 
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Old May 1, 2011 | 11:36 PM
  #15  
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From: Live Oak , Fl
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Just an Idea on 2 parts of your issue here .
Disconnect the kill switch on the handlebars via connector block . Then start it up and see if you still have the problem . I say this as I found the same thing was going on as what your describing ,on my other honda.
2. Look to make sure your vacuum lines are clear , not cracked or hooked up in the wrong way . My son connected my tank vent line to the low vacuum line on the "T" connector on my carbs,,It would start but the minute you give it throttle ,,it dies,,I unhooked the vent line that he connected up and problems gone . Just an Idea bro ,as it sounds like a fuel problem,,but all the vacuum lines are 80% volume in fuel flow for the carbs. The kill switch if its a faulty switch ,,or a dead ground will do the same thing as I found on my other bike ,,would idle and rev fine,,until its under load ,,I removed the kill switch replaced it,,problem gone.
I hope this works for ya!
 
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Old May 2, 2011 | 02:39 AM
  #16  
applechop's Avatar
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From: Denver
Default I fixed the problem

Most of the problem was a break in the upper intake hose running into the carbs. It was the one that runs between the intake manifolds so I didn't see it. Another was the guy before me put the jets in wrong (140s on 1&4, 138s on 2&3)and I didn't check them. It runs fine now. Thanks for all the input.
 
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Old May 2, 2011 | 08:49 AM
  #17  
87turbobuick's Avatar
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lol the guy i bought mine from did the same thing with the jets . . . .some people are just dotes
 
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Old May 2, 2011 | 01:30 PM
  #18  
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From: I live in Plympton Plymouth
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Is your battery getting a charge when the bike is running? If you can start the bike ok, put a volt meter across the battery terminals once it is running and the rev the engine up. See if the voltage increases to around 14.5 volts. If it does then all is well with the charging system. If not then the battery will lose voltage and give a weak ignition spark as it runs down. Another quicker way to check the charging system is to start the bike, put your headlight on and rev the enging up and down and watch the headlight. It should brighten up as you rev the engine and go dimmer when you release the throttle. A weak battery or one that won't hold a charge can cause the problem you are having, but may seem like something else is wrong, which isn't always the case.
 
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