General Tech Good at troubleshooting? Have a non specific issue? Discuss general tech topics here.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

OIL--need help decideing

Old Nov 14, 2011 | 08:22 PM
  #1  
rustynail17's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: Texas
Question OIL--need help decideing

2005 cbr 1000rr

I'm now running 10w-40 advanced fully synthetic mobile 1. I wanna use amsoil but I don't know what type. I was thinking about running AMSOIL Synthetic SAE 60 Motorcycle Oil. (>>>> AMSOIL - Synthetic SAE 60 Motorcycle Oil (MCS) <<<<)

However, they do have loads of others type...but i want fully synthetic (I think?). Price is not an issue for my baby.

Let me know what you guys recommend and why would be AWESOME!!.

Here's the site with all the others. AMSOIL Synthetic Motorcycle Oil

Thanks,

Rusty
 
Reply
Old Nov 14, 2011 | 09:58 PM
  #2  
estate4life's Avatar
February 2012 ROTM
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,741
Likes: 10
From: LOS ANGELES CALI.
Default

Can't go wrong with Amsoil, as for what type? Best to follow bike's owners manual specification....
 
Reply
Old Nov 15, 2011 | 01:18 PM
  #3  
kilgoretrout's Avatar
Administrator - Retired
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 8,194
Likes: 6
From: PA, USA
Default

No! Don't run a straight 60 weight. That's far too thick for your application.
I'm not a big fan of amsoil as a company, but if you want it, I would get the 10w40.
Personally, I would use rotella 5w40 synthetic.
 
Reply
Old Nov 15, 2011 | 03:03 PM
  #4  
exciter900rr's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
From: cali
Default

Originally Posted by kilgoretrout
No! Don't run a straight 60 weight. That's far too thick for your application.
I'm not a big fan of amsoil as a company, but if you want it, I would get the 10w40.
Personally, I would use rotella 5w40 synthetic.
How long have you been using rotella, and in what?
I know for the most part it's a diesel oil, and it's supposed to be the poop!
Also, I am running it in my 97rrt. under the presumption that for the price, I can drain it, flush it, and replace it with little worry. Just curious how long you've been using it?

THX
 
Reply
Old Nov 15, 2011 | 06:46 PM
  #5  
rustynail17's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: Texas
Default

Originally Posted by kilgoretrout
No! Don't run a straight 60 weight. That's far too thick for your application.
I'm not a big fan of amsoil as a company, but if you want it, I would get the 10w40.
Personally, I would use rotella 5w40 synthetic.
Originally Posted by exciter900rr
How long have you been using rotella, and in what?
I know for the most part it's a diesel oil, and it's supposed to be the poop!
Also, I am running it in my 97rrt. under the presumption that for the price, I can drain it, flush it, and replace it with little worry. Just curious how long you've been using it?

THX
rotella huh and idk everytime i hear some1 talking about it...its all amsoil...and i wasnt gonna use the 60 just saying...i would prolly use 10w-40 fully synthetic right?...and stupid question but what does the 10 w and 40 even stand for haha
 

Last edited by rustynail17; Nov 15, 2011 at 06:56 PM.
Reply
Old Nov 15, 2011 | 09:30 PM
  #6  
exciter900rr's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
From: cali
Default

don't hold me to it, but everyone thinks the W stands for weight. if fact, it stands for winter. now here's the "don't hold me to it" part… The second number is viscosity at operating temperatures I believe. smaller number is thicker, bigger number thinner and so forth...
 
Reply
Old Nov 15, 2011 | 09:39 PM
  #7  
74demon's Avatar
Administrator and MVN, March 2012/Oct 2013 ROTM
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 12,193
Likes: 119
From: socal 949/951
Default

Originally Posted by exciter900rr
don't hold me to it, but everyone thinks the W stands for weight. if fact, it stands for winter. now here's the "don't hold me to it" part… The second number is viscosity at operating temperatures I believe. smaller number is thicker, bigger number thinner and so forth...
Other way around. Smaller is thinner.
 
Reply
Old Nov 15, 2011 | 10:14 PM
  #8  
exciter900rr's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
From: cali
Default

Thanks Demon- I ALWAYS get that backwards. even when I deliberately switch it. lol
 
Reply
Old Nov 15, 2011 | 10:54 PM
  #9  
74demon's Avatar
Administrator and MVN, March 2012/Oct 2013 ROTM
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 12,193
Likes: 119
From: socal 949/951
Default

Originally Posted by exciter900rr
Thanks Demon- I ALWAYS get that backwards. even when I deliberately switch it. lol
I know.... just making sure that everyone else that reads this does.
 
Reply
Old Nov 16, 2011 | 01:20 AM
  #10  
RoadiJeff's Avatar
Senior Member & Lord of The Man Cave
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,293
Likes: 2
From: St. Louis, MO
Default

Originally Posted by rustynail17
and stupid question but what does the 10 w and 40 even stand for haha
Here's what it says about that on How Stuff Works "What does the weight mean on a can of motor oil":

Multi-weight oils (such as 10W-30) are a new invention made possible by adding polymers to oil. The polymers allow the oil to have different weights at different temperatures. The first number indicates the viscosity of the oil at a cold temperature, while the second number indicates the viscosity at operating temperature. This page from the Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ offers the following very interesting description of how the polymers work:
At cold temperatures, the polymers are coiled up and allow the oil to flow as their low numbers indicate. As the oil warms up, the polymers begin to unwind into long chains that prevent the oil from thinning as much as it normally would. The result is that at 100 degrees C, the oil has thinned only as much as the higher viscosity number indicates. Another way of looking at multi-vis oils is to think of a 20W-50 as a 20 weight oil that will not thin more than a 50 weight would when hot.
 
Reply

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:56 AM.