oh and just so you all know, i've been working on cars, motorcycles, aircraft, and many other mechanical things since i was 8 years old, both professionally, and personally, and i'm 54 now. just saying, i'm not a noob here.

 

My bike was run with 10w40 from day one, I couldnt just change to a 0w after all this time. If my bike was brand new, and I had a choice, ya, maybe, but not after almost 50k miles. More importantly than boost pressure is the comp ratio; Supra turbo= 10, My bike= 11.5 Motor oil is like religion everybody swears to know that theirs is the only one; truth is, different motors, different circumstances, different motor oil.

 

Very well said.

 

Well... not really.

You guys just aren't listening to Royal. He's talking about cold viscosity vs. hot.
0W40 is no different than 10W40 when it's at running temperature.
However, 0W40 is much better at cold temps because it flows better. Flow is always good when it's cold.

Synthetics are also better. Synthetic base stocks are more uniform, stronger, not polluted with waxes and cockroaches, and they flow better cold. (even with the same cold number)

It doesn't really matter what your manual says is a recommended number for cold viscosity. The lower the number the better. Always. The latter number (40 in this case) is pretty important, but not necessarily 100% best depending on the application.

The only thing with 0W oils is that many you find on the shelf have different additive packages that may or may not be ideal for wet clutches. I've never had the ***** to just run the EC 0W30 mobil 1 in my bike yet. Maybe some day. I have zero hesitation about running the non-EC car oils, though.

Oh, and the "w" doesn't stand for anything when you're talking about multi-grades. Not "weight" or "winter" or anything. It's just a test designation.
Kinda like CBR doesn't mean anything.

I generally run 5W40 synthetic rotella in the old CBR or mobil 1 car oil. 0W20 and 0W30 synth in my other vehicles, usually Mobil 1.

It's totally up to you what you want to run, though. Running what it says in the manual isn't gonna blow up your bike.

 

first, if you read the whole thing, you would have noticed that i never said it was the only one, just less expensive, and more readily available than amsoil. i also believe, that you failed to read the info i linked to fully. in effect, you are saying that you prefer to get less oil to your bearings during the critical startup phase, than you could using 0w30 oil. in your case, if you could find it, a 0w40 synthetic oil will give you the best of both worlds. also noteworthy, it is flow, not viscosity that is important during startup. if there is no oil between the bearings and crank, wear will occur. the faster the oil flows to the bearings, the less wear there will be.

 

Yes...really... I commented on the quote alone, not any of the remaining argument/bickering. Your last two comments (quoted above) makes the point I was trying to make & should've just said myself.

I'm out of this one.

 

I just don't see the two quotes as being similar at all. And when you quote part of a larger post that makes no sense?

Oh well. See ya. I'm going to put some Mobil 1 car oil in my bike.... or maybe some diesel oil.

Different motors, different circumstances, same oil.

 

Forget it, I give up; I dont know what to believe anymore. Im gonna put vegetable oil in my bike, and when it runs hopefully it smells like french fries.

 

A 0W-30 oil is ok but not above 90degrees Farenheit. You need to be using a 10W40 to protect your engine above and beyond 100F. You may have got away with the 30W oil when the engine is hot, but it makes more sense to get the better protection from a 40W when hot. The lower end viscosity is fine for cold or freezing temperature starting, but not as the engine heats up, especially in traffic where your bike willl exceed even 100F! Many moons ago we had to make oil changes according to the seasons. A 30W in Winter and a 50W in Summer! Multigrades do make life simpler, but still, you have to use one that gives the best protection at the coldest and hottest temperatures you machine may encounter and I feel at a 30W oil won't give you that at the high-end running temperatures the CBR or any other modern sports bike attains. Life is interesting eh? LOL!

 

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