been using stock and K&N is there any better? I heard that those filters aren't the best and can't find the others they mention.
Where can I find those filters? I have F4i 01

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/FilterXRef.html

Recommended filters.
All have superior filtering.

About 2.5 inches long.
Purolator Pure One PL14612, about $6.
Mobil M1-108, about $12.
Made by Champion.
Bosch 3300, about $6.
Made by Champion.

About 3.25 inches long.
Purolator Pure One PL14610, about $6.
Mobil 1 M1-110, about $10.
Made by Champion.
Bosch 3323, about $6.
Made By Champion.
WalMart SuperTech ST7317,
about $2. Made by Champion.

 

I worked at a honda Motorcycle dealership for 6-years through highschool/college at a parts/service manager. I asked this question to at least 3 factory service reps that visited the shop on a regular basis....I am always a fan of the OEM/Factory Oil Filters, so were they(duh)...I think the ones for most of the streetbikes now are the "small" screwon and cost in the neighborhood of $9-$10 from the dealership, but can be found cheaper in qty buys on the net.

I use the factory HP4(non-moly) with the OEM filter.....The MAIN thing is to use quality materials but most importantly CHANGE IT OFTEN.....I do mine at 1500 mile intervals during riding season, and 1st thing when the spring season starts no matter how many miles since the last change.... Most will call this ****-retentive service intervals, but ive always done it, and will keep doing it.

btw, not using OEM stuff will NOT void the warranty as long as you can document "regular" service intervals, this means if you do it yourself, keep reciepts of the stuff you buy. Honda's oils(At least those in the US) are made by MOBILE, for those of you that are wondering. We had to order them directly from our local MOBILE supplier. Im sure Honda Buys-out the OEM filters also, i just dont know who they get to manufacture them.

My $0.02 worth....Feel free to bash me if desired...

 

Stock all the way, ditto on the regular changes but i think 1500 miles is to soon for normal street riding, unless its been in there a year.

 

you can find them at pep boys, autozone, walmart, etc.
i'm using the 3.25" mobile 1. it fits well and has more filtering since it's a bigger filter. also, lets me get a little bit more oil into the bike!

 

Not to beat this one to death, but there are other things besides good fit and more oil capacity to consider....

There is also:
-- flow-rate
-- does it have a anti-flowback valve or not
-- filter media type(flow-rate related)
-- thread type/pitch for the oil-bolt(some metric/standard can be very similar and even "thread" on, but with too much play or slight thread pitch difference will strip when torqued to spec)

I still say OEM HondaLine is the best bet with regular intervals, but its your $10,000.[sm=headbang.gif]

 

my bike doesn't cost 10K.
as far as those listed things...yes, been tested, etc.
all pans out fine or better than the stocker.
thread pitch, etc...correct, metric style too!

do a search and read up on the scoop. you may change your mind. then again, i'm sure it's going to end up like an octane debate.

 

For what it's worth I'm using the OEM filter and HP4 (w/o moly) during the riding season. I use GN4 dino blend when it's time to store the machine for the New England winter, but then change back to HP4 (again, w/o moly) when the season starts. I'm not sure if anybody else does this but when I change my oil in the winter, before storage, I leave the oil filter on the machine. In other words, I don't change the filter, just the oil. I change the filter after it comes back into service though. I've debated using K&N filters but they're a little more expensive and I don't see the value in them.

 

How much does that filter cost?

 

buahahaha...that filter was 10 bucks...hahahah...not stocker but they were out of purolator filters.
as far as K&N, they haven't been receiving good ratings per some sites, the zx10r being one of them.
pure one actually came out better than the K&N filter did, as it had all the features, anti-flow back valve, etc. but had same if not better filtering...and for the price...can't be beaten.

if i can fit an even bigger filter i would. figure you can fit it as long as it doesn't hit the front tire, but then it would totally tell everyone that my bike is male...buhahaha...

this one dude from the SCS forum took sent his oil to blackstone for an analysis. he changed the oil at 4K. there were some signs of aluminium, more than average, plus his oil showed signs of low vicosity/degradation.

at the time he was using K&N and also dino oil...castrol 5/40. they recommended he changed at 2700 miles. i'm sure he would've done better with some other oil though, not necessarily motorcycle specific or anything...but maybe 10/40 or heavier.

so frequent oil changes and a good filter is all you need mang!

 

when it comes to oil systems, the filter is important, but factory is always the way to go. In porsche, anybody who knows anything stays with factory. the big thing ils the oil and when it is changed. I dont know how to quote so mikem317 said that he runs dino in the winter..... well if its not riden in the winter (which it probably isnt in new england) and just started up, you need that synthetic, because with the condensation mixed with the blowby, it creates acids that there are antacids in the oil for. since more of this will occor in cold weather, you want the added antacids of the synthetic in the winter as well