Idle/Shifting issues
#12
So I didnt realize how much a pain in the A** changing spark plugs on this particular bike would be, however, I'm grateful for it.
What I found:
1.) One hole in the reservoir tank
2.) Caked up antifreeze in said reservoir tank at the bottom close to the line
3.) One damaged coil (the connector tip was snapped off - ghetto)
4.) All plugs wet with raw fuel and in the worste shape i've ever seen spark plugs get. I mean, these things were so bad they had to have been the originals.
So, Im thinking after a replacement coil, new plugs and a sound reservoir tank the bike will start functioning a little better =P.
We'll see. Coil has been ordered, hopefully that does end this small nightmare.
What I found:
1.) One hole in the reservoir tank
2.) Caked up antifreeze in said reservoir tank at the bottom close to the line
3.) One damaged coil (the connector tip was snapped off - ghetto)
4.) All plugs wet with raw fuel and in the worste shape i've ever seen spark plugs get. I mean, these things were so bad they had to have been the originals.
So, Im thinking after a replacement coil, new plugs and a sound reservoir tank the bike will start functioning a little better =P.
We'll see. Coil has been ordered, hopefully that does end this small nightmare.
#13
Yea, sounds like it. Unfortunately, this seemed to be a problem stemming from multiple areas. bad plugs, coil, etc. That raises another point though, if the plugs were original, what else is? Id start checking things. You said it was your first bike, have you done any service on it? Not trying to be ignorant, just that things like plugs, and basic to moderate service is usually a must when getting a bike. Nonetheless, we all learn our own way. If you ride it a lot, Id check oil, fuel filter and all of that as well. Never know how old the parts are without a service record.
Good luck.
-Poss
Good luck.
-Poss
#14
Yea first bike, i've put about 1500 miles on it so far (28000 on it at this time). I did change the oil immediately when i brought it home and had a mechanic inspect the chain and sprocket. They signed off on it.
Unfortunately I never took the time to do these things first. Definitely paying for it now.
I've removed the plastics and inspected as much as i could. Im thinking i should get the brakes taken care of next just on principle lol.
Unfortunately I never took the time to do these things first. Definitely paying for it now.
I've removed the plastics and inspected as much as i could. Im thinking i should get the brakes taken care of next just on principle lol.
#15
Yea, get down there and check out the pads. Obviously you can tell if they are in need of new pads, etc. But also check tos ee that the pads are wearing evenly, etc. Uneven wear can be a symptom of pads cutting into rotors. If you have the gauge to test run out you can do so, but if its never been dropped or your pads are ok then chances are its fine. I mean this is a standard check from the manual. If no guauge you can visibly inspect the rotors as well for smooth, even surface. You want to be checking for things like grooves in them. Spin your wheel, is it smooth? Tire has even bead? While off ground, give it a good shake left and right, up and down. IF you a bit loose then bearings need replacing. Any grinding/clicking noises coming from hub, etc. Hows your brake fluid? Is it clean and clear, or brown and dirty, foggy. Check level of brake, etc. If checking brake fluid, be weary of letting any air into system either by running resovior dry or by improper bleed bolt adjustment. Shout back if you need to know, or you can google the proper way to service brakes.
Totally not a bad idea at the least to go to the manual and follow there guides about inspecting specific areas. Most of which can be down with simple hand tools and a bit of wit. Keep her running top notch and you will definilty be on the winning side of the fight against wear.
Good luck.
-Poss
Totally not a bad idea at the least to go to the manual and follow there guides about inspecting specific areas. Most of which can be down with simple hand tools and a bit of wit. Keep her running top notch and you will definilty be on the winning side of the fight against wear.
Good luck.
-Poss
#16
I know i'm talking to myself at this point, but figured i'd keep posting for anyone who might experience the same issue.
I added FI Lucas to the tank, it definitely made the bike run stronger but after about a 5 minute ride there is still idling issues at red lights. The RPM's will bounce from .8 to about 2k consistently. The bike will not die if I turn the throttle just slightly to maintain 2k RPMS, it will die if I didn't do this.
- Checked the battery, it was definitely needing of a charge. Got it charged up, this did not fix the issue. Still having idle issues.
- I messed with the idle screw (after reading my manual) and this helped a little bit, but it wasn't a complete resolution. Still experiencing inconsistent idling.
What I did notice was that when I hit the gas, the RPM's climb and slowly come down to 2k, almost like something in the manifold is getting stuck. My understanding is if I hit the gas (with clutch in) the RPM's should drop pretty quickly back to the idle state. My bike doesn't do this.
So, i understand foul spark plugs can be culprits for weird issues. Im gunna get those replaced this week. We'll see how it goes. For anyone reading, wish me luck
I added FI Lucas to the tank, it definitely made the bike run stronger but after about a 5 minute ride there is still idling issues at red lights. The RPM's will bounce from .8 to about 2k consistently. The bike will not die if I turn the throttle just slightly to maintain 2k RPMS, it will die if I didn't do this.
- Checked the battery, it was definitely needing of a charge. Got it charged up, this did not fix the issue. Still having idle issues.
- I messed with the idle screw (after reading my manual) and this helped a little bit, but it wasn't a complete resolution. Still experiencing inconsistent idling.
What I did notice was that when I hit the gas, the RPM's climb and slowly come down to 2k, almost like something in the manifold is getting stuck. My understanding is if I hit the gas (with clutch in) the RPM's should drop pretty quickly back to the idle state. My bike doesn't do this.
So, i understand foul spark plugs can be culprits for weird issues. Im gunna get those replaced this week. We'll see how it goes. For anyone reading, wish me luck
Sorry to hear you are still having problems. As I said in my reply, fuel injected engines aren't my thing, as there could be several problems. The fuel pump or fuel regulator may have faults or, as you say, one or two of the spark plugs may be breaking down at idle speed. Have you taken a look at them yet? They may just need a good clean and the gaps re-setting. Is the air filter ok and not blocked? I wish I could be of more help and I wish you the good luck you seem to need! Try the battery test one more time with the bike on idle to see if the voltage is dropping below 12 volts. I still suspect this is where your problem lies, but without being alongside your bike it's impossible to be certain. Let us know how you get on?n
#17
I finally have an update here. It took me forever to find anything else that may be related to the issue.
I went to start the bike and it immediately stalled while making a static noise near the battery. So, i went to check things out there and found that the battery seemed to be arching. After a taking a look at fuses, components, etc. It seems I found a short that desperately wants to go whack my battery. The main-fuse lights up like a Christmas tree immediately.
Time to get out the multi-meter. =/
I went to start the bike and it immediately stalled while making a static noise near the battery. So, i went to check things out there and found that the battery seemed to be arching. After a taking a look at fuses, components, etc. It seems I found a short that desperately wants to go whack my battery. The main-fuse lights up like a Christmas tree immediately.
Time to get out the multi-meter. =/
#19
Disconnect things one at a time when you are going through the wiring. If you really do not have a clue as to where to start, then break out the diagram. Pick up the ECU and start at each wire checking continuity to the other side if you can. Its rough but there is obviously something going haywire. Or start at easier access points. I hope you sort it though.
How chopped is your harness already? If its really bad maybe considering another one. Def do as much work as you can yourself because trying to give something wrong to a mechanic and telling them you dont know where it is they can dig around and charge you for an extensive amount of work. Either way, good luck.
-Poss
How chopped is your harness already? If its really bad maybe considering another one. Def do as much work as you can yourself because trying to give something wrong to a mechanic and telling them you dont know where it is they can dig around and charge you for an extensive amount of work. Either way, good luck.
-Poss
#20
Woohoo!
The nightmare has ended my brethren!
Luckily my wire harness wasn't too chopped so it was relatively easy to go through and make sure things were connected, tied together, etc.
So, what I did find was one connection was not fully in place. It was my headlight connection and I'm not sure if this was the problem or not, but after going through the entire harness I was running constant checks on the battery. It was actually dropping to 9V from 12V in a sporadic manner in a similar fashion that my RPM's were dropping while riding, so that got me wondering.
Basically I gave my terminals a deep clean....and I mean DEEP. They weren't in the best shape, but i had no idea that this could be the possible issue.
After doing so the bike runs great. HOORAY!
Next line of business: replace the anti-freeze reservoir tank and get some sexy plastics on old girl.
Thanks for reading everyone! Let me know if you have any specific questions.
Luckily my wire harness wasn't too chopped so it was relatively easy to go through and make sure things were connected, tied together, etc.
So, what I did find was one connection was not fully in place. It was my headlight connection and I'm not sure if this was the problem or not, but after going through the entire harness I was running constant checks on the battery. It was actually dropping to 9V from 12V in a sporadic manner in a similar fashion that my RPM's were dropping while riding, so that got me wondering.
Basically I gave my terminals a deep clean....and I mean DEEP. They weren't in the best shape, but i had no idea that this could be the possible issue.
After doing so the bike runs great. HOORAY!
Next line of business: replace the anti-freeze reservoir tank and get some sexy plastics on old girl.
Thanks for reading everyone! Let me know if you have any specific questions.
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