Thanks -

So it's just a matter of tightening the cable until the engagement point changes?

 

Good to hear.

To move your clutch point a little closer to the handlebar you need to put a little slack in the cable assembly.

Proper clutch free play should be about 3/8 -3/4" free play (at the end of the lever). With the engine turned off pull the lever until resistance is felt. If yours is less than that (engagement point is too far out) - then loosen the locknut on the cable adjuster, and screw the cable adjuster stop into the lever housing a turn or 2. Recheck the free play. Get it where you want it, and tighten the locknut against the lever housing.

If there's more than 5/16" of threads showing between the locknut and the end of the cable adjuster, you need to adjust the cable @ the other end also. In that case, screw the adjuster @ the handlebar back in completely, then back it out 2 turns leave it loose for now.

Get access to your clutch cover and locate the cable adjuster bracket. On the right side is a locknut, and the left is the adjuster nut. In the scenario where you have too much thread showing @ the handlebar means some slack needs to be taken up here @ the clutch cover. Loosen the locknut, and then turn the adjusting nut a couple of turns you should be moving your wrench upward while making this adjustment - and it should be increasing the # of threads you see to the right of the adjusting nut. 2-3 turns here, and then go reset the free play at the lever like I've already described. once the lever is right, lock down the locknut @ the lever, and at the clutch housing.

fire it up - (cover the brake in case something is wrong and the bike tries to lurch) - and just sit in the carport doing what I call "rocking exercises".

In 1st gear with the clutch in and your feet planed on the ground, push the bike backward underneath you slowly, roll back onto your heels, and lightly let the clutch out to where the bike rolls forward, and pull the clutch in. Let the bike keep rolling until you're back centered or almost up on your toes. Push yourself back. Try to not have to use the brake or throttle for anything. Don't be afraid to touch the brake if needed, but the throttle is definitely not needed. Do this in groups of 10 reps. This is simply teaching yourself to be smooth on the clutch for uptake - and how little is needed to get the bike creeping forward. Using the clutch to stop the bike's backward motion will simulate starting on an incline as well.

Also - looking back at your original post you were asking about the bodywork - my suggestion, Install sliders if you don't have em already - extra longs if you can. Hell install a stunter's engine cage possibly. For the bodywork, take it all off except what is required to keep your mirrors, seat and lighting mounted properly.

You also said:
How often are you riding the bike? This statement almost makes me think you are letting it sit for a couple of weeks between use? If so there's your main problem - you're simply not getting any experience. combined with your statement that you don't have much experience on anything else with 2 wheels, you simply are lacking any skill set to fall back on. People say "it's just like riding a bicycle, you never forget" - unfortunately if you never knew how to ride that bike in the first place, there's nothing to remember. If you want to be competent on the motorcycle, you are going to have to put the time in.

Reading forums and watching videos don't substitute for actual riding. Sounds like you need some people to ride with. Also sounds like you need to simply get out and away from town - Pull up a map, find some rural town 30 miles away and take the backroads getting there. get away from all the stop and go of a city, stopsigns and intersections. You gotta get comfortable on the bike before you can be comfortable on the bike in a high stress environment like a dialy city-commute. Get up early on a Saturday, go ride for a couple of hours. You'll be back before noon. Just spend some time riding the bike. That's what it's all about anyway.

Moving down to a 250 is not going to change hardly anything, except then you will still have the same skill problems on a slightly smaller bike. Stick with the F4, it's already paid its dues. Might as well soldier on with one beat up bike instead of getting another that you'll beat the hell out of too.

 

[QUOTE=adrenalnjunky;1011783
snip[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the how-to.

Also, I see what you're saying. I do plan to take some longer trips as soon as the snow and other ****ty health issues stop happening.

 

random food for thought

I know you said you built up you confidence on u turns. just dont feel to bad about it. i know people with tens of thousands of miles, who i have seen get a little sketchy on a u turn.

just take it slow, dont panic or rush, and on the opposite end dont relax so much you become unaware.

oh keep the revs below 6-7 grand for a while, mostly in the 3-4k range. itll be like beating the **** out of a torquey 500 twin. maybe stay off the freeway until your more comfortable with the power. In town there is really no reason to go higher, but on the freeway its probably neccesary and way to easy.(i am basing this off my f2s torque curve)

i like to sit on my bike at lights and rock it back and forth, and left and right with my hips. keeps me from dozin, works your muscles a little, and gives you a little input on how to hold the weight of your bike. maybe do it in your parking space with it off so it cant go flying, and if you do drop it you wont have to worry about getting ran over, blocking traffic or you ego so much.

yes i put my bike in nuetral at lights

how are your core muscles(with the surgery)? all your hands should do is control clutch brake and throttle, not really grip or steer. I am not too sure how just a hand slip causes WOT hence this comment.

I am not scared to drop my bike, if its going to go i just let it, and deal with the consequences, id rather it get a few scratches than a busted ankle or wrist, plus chances are i may still be standing. personally, id get it in proper working order and street fighter it for the next 5k+, and wear your gear of course.

edit: i am in no way a professional or someone for good advice, i just still have a decent amount of luck and have survived 3 years 5 days a week and 14k ish miles.

 

lol - and just as a confidence builder, - I dropped my bike Last weekend while trying to back it up a slightly inclined driveway. One foot slipped and over she went. Like Tuscon said - I just stepped to the side and let the bike fall - once 480 lbs gets past a certain angle, it's going down, nothing you can do. Frame sliders kept the plastics off the ground, and I ended up with nothing more than a scratch on my mirror.

2 things that i use when backing/maneuvering a bike in tight places.

a) I never crank my bike until I'm ready to put it in gear and drive away. Keeps unfortunate things from happening like unintended throttle/clutch lever slips.

b) realize that it takes a ton of space to turn your bike around - don't pull it in somewhere that you can't get it out of easily. I should have backed my bike down the driveway I was in - then I would have just been able to crank up and pull straight out.

 

I used to put it into neutral at lights but a couple things starting making me keep it in gear.

1) sometimes it would get stuck in neutral and couldn't go down to first.
2) after hearing horror stories about people rear ending bikes I want to always be ready to gtfo if something bad looks like it's about to happen.

adrenaljunky- thanks for the tips. I am starting to do a) more often I realize; after some potentially embarrassing moments getting it out of my parking spot with it in gear.

 

old post i know. if your still out here i hope you and bike made it through ok, but i find your descriptive story hallarious. talking of your spills and mis haps, just sounds funny how you put it.

good day.

 

This is true, when you are jumping your bike it should be with the car off, If it does not jump with the car off then your battery needs to be charged, their cheap and if you own a bike you should probably own a charger.