I am not sure if this experience will make me look like a bit of a noob or what... but even if it does, I won't mind. Because even if I save one person a half hour worth of wasted time and stress, then it is totally worth it.

My Story:

Yesterday I received my new Healtech SpeedoHealer v4 in the mail after work and I headed straight into the garage to get it installed. I had already used the online calculator to get my adjustment number and I was excited to have a correct speedometer and odometer.

The instructions seemed simple enough, even though it took me awhile to find my speedometer coupler and even longer to get it unplugged and then re-plugged into the SpeedoHealer feed line. (On a side note, they don't bother letting you know you need the hands of a small child to perform this on an F4i)

So even with the difficulty with the coupler connections I had it all installed and wires ran within 45 mintues. This is where my trouble started.

The instructions say use "TEST" Mode to be sure it's installed correctly. To do this simply hold the SEL button and turn the key on. A 't' appears on the SpeedoHealer display and your speedometer will read a weird random number. This way you know it's "talking" to the speedometer. Then you can rotate your rear wheel and the "t" on the speedohealer should flash letting you know it's reading the speed sensor. Easy Peasy right?

So the "t" did show up, but the speedometer stayed at 0, hmmmm, weird. I rotate the tire and sure enough the "t" flashes... so I figure a bad connection at the coupler. Sadly I jam my now swollen hand back into the tiny space where the coupler is and pull each plug apart and check the pins and re-plug them in. (writing this sounds easy, but this literally took me ANOTHER half hour or more to do)

Now time to try Test mode again... same story... WTF??? Again checking connections... more pain in my hand... I use a continuity test to be sure leads are good... even plug the speedometer coupler back together like original. And even then I get NO speedometer action when I spin the wheel... That's REALLY weird.

Key part of the story here:

so I think... Does the Run switch have to be "ON" for the speedometer to even register? You know the answer here... YES. So I just spent the better part of 2 hours trouble shooting a problem that was solved by the simple flick of a little red switch. UGH!

So before you laugh me off the forum, I hope someone agrees that it's a little weird that the key in the "on" position triggers all the guage tests and powers everything up, (even the speedohealer), but doesn't actually read a speedomter signal, that IS being sent. How was I to know???

Anyways... the point of this (because I was searching for it myself) is to inform anyone who is in the same boat that when using the test mode of the SpeedoHealer, be sure your run switch is turned "ON".

Thanks All!

 

I have a SpeedoHealer on my 1000RR. I didn't have any testing problem but I never use the kill switch for anything, it always stays on. Glad you got it diagnosed and working.

On the odometer, I've been told that it is set to be accurate from the factory, while the speedo is intentionally set slightly high for liability reasons. When you get the speedo error corrected it then causes the odometer to read low.

I think I remember in the instructions or somewhere that the original distance is retained in some memory and if you ever use the SpeedoHealer recall button to see what your highest speed was it then changes the odometer to show the stored distance.

I'll have to use the highway mile markers sometime and verify whether my odometer reads too low or not. I had to input a -6.7% correction factor to get the speedo to read accurately.

 

Hey RodiJeff! Thanks, you actually have answered two of my follow up questions....

This was my first thought when I figured out the problem that no one else seemed to encounter, I wondered "does anyone even use the engine stop switch???" I have just been in the habit since I began riding to use it... Should I even bother?

Then I wondered what kind of difference others were seeing... Believe it or not, I had to go -13.4%.... Part of me wonders if the previous owner has done something with the sprockets... I run about 6500 RPM at 70 in 6th (true 70 now) is that normal?

Thanks for the input Jeff!

 

That sounds high but it could be that far off from the factory, I suppose.

If you want to see if the original size sprockets are on it you can go to the Gearing Commander website, load your bike's data from the drop-down menu and see what the factory sizes were. Then count the teeth on yours.

The charts will also show what the rpm is supposed to be at a specific speed and you can see if 6500 rpm at 70 in 6th is close to what it says for stock gearing.

 

Hey Jeff..

Thanks for the tip on Gearing Commander. I double checked this morning on the way to work that I am at 6500 in 6th at 70 where the chart says stock I should be doing 78 at 6500, Hmmm... Stock for 70 I should be at about 5800.

I plugged in a common Sprocket Swap I have read about -1/+2 and sure enough, that equates to 70 at 6500 rpm. So I am pretty sure that is what has been done (I'll count to double check it.)

I know this swap gives some better torque, but since I use the bike alot for commuting and travel over an hours worth each way at 70 (ish) mph, I'm thinking I'd rather have the stock setup and save myself some MPG!

I think that will be coming for me soon...

Thanks again for the help!