fuel and power problems from rebuilt carbs
#1
fuel and power problems from rebuilt carbs
whats up this is my first post but its an important one for what I need. I have an 88 hurricane 600f. After setting for maybe 4 years I got it out and gave it a tune up. new oil, filters, plugs, cleaned the carbs. ect. so after putting the carbs on it ran good reved up nice and all then after syncing them still nice. although when i was riding it it had no power and didnt have much throttle response. then I noticed a large fuel leak fromm the t tube on the carbs. Ifixed that then when started it would rev to 5000 rpm then putter out not not able to rev mor than 3-4000rpm. I thought maybe not enough fuel ar to much. I re-synched the carbes. checked the lines-good, fue filter-good, fuel pump-good, runs the same with or without the air filter in place. and still doesnt have throttle respnse or power when in gear.
what the carb problem or fuel problem
whats the power problem
I could really use your guys help on this. thanks.
what the carb problem or fuel problem
whats the power problem
I could really use your guys help on this. thanks.
#2
How did you fix the leak? If you simply plugged the hose, then the gas will just dump into your engine. It sounds like a stuck float to me. The hoses are vented to the float bowls of the carbs, when the float or needle sticks, gas doesnt stop entering the carb and has no where to go except out the tubes. if the tubes are plugged, then the gas can only go into the engine. A constant flow of gas from one carb will do exactly what you are describing.
#4
yeah bud I put a new battery on. lol I bought new rubber o rings or the tubes and clamped them in. it ran better with the fuel leak. but the carbs wernt taken apart between the fix so the floats shouldnt be stuck or it would have ran differently before right. i didnt do anything extra. I kept it stock and replaced everything the way it came apart. what about when in gear too.
#5
The needle that lets gas into the carb, if not seated properly, will just keep dumping gas in the carb. A few different things can happen to cause the needle to not be seated. One, the float sticks and doesnt allow the needle to close. A piece of dirt can become lodged between the needle and seat, not letting the needle close, the floats can be damaged so they no longer float and the needle won't seat. So, at any given time, the needle can stick open. The bike could be running fine one minute, then overflowing with gas the next. But, I may have read your original statement incorrectly. I thought you were reffering to the overflow tubes that run down the side of the carburetor. I see now that you meant just the gas feed line. So that is more than likely not the issue.
after you synced the carbs, did you adjust the pilot jets correctly?
How does it run with the choke on?
How does the bike sound? Even though you changed the plugs, you may have plug not firing. you can check it by starting the bike, take a spray bottle with water and spray each exhaust tube at the engine. if you have one considerable less hot than the others, that may be your issue. This can lead to the cylinder that has the problem, be it lack of spark or lack of gas.
also, check to make sure the carbs are seated in the boots all the way and they are tight. You may want to check for vaccum leaks by taking some carb cleaner or wd-40, with the bike running, sparingly spray areas around the outside of carb base, the crank base, the cylinder head base, and see if the rpms change. If they do, you have a vaccum leak around the area.
after you synced the carbs, did you adjust the pilot jets correctly?
How does it run with the choke on?
How does the bike sound? Even though you changed the plugs, you may have plug not firing. you can check it by starting the bike, take a spray bottle with water and spray each exhaust tube at the engine. if you have one considerable less hot than the others, that may be your issue. This can lead to the cylinder that has the problem, be it lack of spark or lack of gas.
also, check to make sure the carbs are seated in the boots all the way and they are tight. You may want to check for vaccum leaks by taking some carb cleaner or wd-40, with the bike running, sparingly spray areas around the outside of carb base, the crank base, the cylinder head base, and see if the rpms change. If they do, you have a vaccum leak around the area.
#6
+1 on squids advise. one thing to add is that as old as the bike is , one of the old plastic floats could have a leak and is filling up with fuel not allowing proper action. I say this cause when i did my 93RR carbs not to long ago , i noticed that the floats were looking old and brittle.see my pic, were yours as ugly? i was close to ordering a new set of floats. But I would rule out all of the above simple problems first. the spray bottle trick will tell you some of this quick. Peace
#7
ill try the spray test and get back to you . the bike idles fine with or without the choke. it dies around 2-3000 rpm when reving if the choke is on, and around 5000 with choke off. when reving up it starts to putter like an old flappy assed fart, like the diaphrams are fluttering. smells rich from the exhaust too. I did not ajust the pilot screws, i cdidnt see them ant the manual doesnt mention them. so about the floats....... the y looked ok to me and had spring to them from the lil spring thing. i dont know what its called. but I dont know...does it matter when you put the float spring thing in if it fce one way or the other. in this image its the black tiped short metal piece in the bag. but i guess ill have to take them apart again and check everything.
/Users/kevinmoore/Desktop/CK1398_CARB_KIT.jpg
/Users/kevinmoore/Desktop/CK1398_CARB_KIT.jpg
#8
that image is here actually. and i guess its just above the plastic bag
http://imagehost.vendio.com/a/370164...8_CARB_KIT.jpg
http://imagehost.vendio.com/a/370164...8_CARB_KIT.jpg
#9
If this bike has been siting for four years I'd also check the HT leads and coils. rubber can perish a good deal in that time and you may find that just because it's been run a few times now you've opened up cracks and perhaps got some broken conductor threads to boot giving misfire on possibly all cylinders. Not an easy thing to detect visually. Not even that easy to detect with test equipment either but you should look at the possibility and consider replacing them.
Squid, I like your spray bottle trick. Never heard that one before. Good shout!
Leak testing for vacuum leaks would also be my next line of attack.
it looks as though your going to have to get a bit phorensic about this problem and look at everything in great detail to find the problem.
Don't forget, after such a long period of sitting about aluminium can develop the most horrible oxide which in some cases can look like a bad fungal attack. When you take the carbs apart use as much carb cleaner as you need and use compressed air to blow out the jets, airways and fuel ducts and get any accumulated crap out of there.
Good luck indeed.
Squid, I like your spray bottle trick. Never heard that one before. Good shout!
Leak testing for vacuum leaks would also be my next line of attack.
it looks as though your going to have to get a bit phorensic about this problem and look at everything in great detail to find the problem.
Don't forget, after such a long period of sitting about aluminium can develop the most horrible oxide which in some cases can look like a bad fungal attack. When you take the carbs apart use as much carb cleaner as you need and use compressed air to blow out the jets, airways and fuel ducts and get any accumulated crap out of there.
Good luck indeed.
#10
that image is here actually. and i guess its just above the plastic bag
http://imagehost.vendio.com/a/370164...8_CARB_KIT.jpg
http://imagehost.vendio.com/a/370164...8_CARB_KIT.jpg