So I am in 2nd gear and I accelerate fast making the rpms jump all the way to 12k, and some idiot cager pulls into my lane without looking and I am forced to press the brakes hard. But I mean not that hard that the tires are gonna lock up.

After pressing the break, my bike just dies! Like it dies in 2nd gear and im rolling to a slow stop, the rpm guage is all the way to 0.

I checked to see if i turned it off accidentally by pressing the emergency stop switch, but I didn't, and the kickstand wasnt down either.

Whats going on?

Lol sorry for the long story though

 

Dies how? Bogs out? Goes out like a light? One time thing? Only under those specific circumstances?

More info cause there's too many things it could be.

 

It turns off as in no more engine sound, electrics are all on and working as I the headlights are running and everything. Everytime I push the limits towards the redline it happens, which is weird.

Ever since that incident its been dying whenever I am close to redlining it in lower gears, more specifically whenever i let off the throttle too quick it happens.

 

There are a few things that could be:

Assuming it isn't electrical - (your clocks etc stayed on right?) then I had something similar recently after I pulled my tank.

Next time it happens pull over quickly and pop open your fuel cap - if there is a shlomp noise then something is blocked/bent - Check all your fuel hoses, the fuel return hose and the breather hose (the three hoses leading from your tank).

On mine the problem was a small leak where the main fuel hose meets at the fuel rail (the brass coloured rail leading to the 4 injectors). Prop the tank up with all the hoses still attached and turn on the ignition (dont start it) this primes the fuel pump - check the bolt on the far right hand side of the rail to see if it is wet - you could have a similar fault to me. Change the washers and torque it down properly.

It was either a pressure leak or air was getting in, either way the symptoms were like yours. worth a try for the 1/2 hour itll take you

 

yeaa all of my electronics were on, and recently i did lift the gas tank to install dynojet pc3 module. sO one of the lines might be getting stepped on by the tank then...

Will try, but do you know where to get the washers?

 

+1, didn't think of it vapor locking. I was thinking originally there was some weird electrical short happening, killing the bike's power. But if the gauges are staying lit, it's prolly something else.

What's the bike's running temp when this happens? And when you had the tank off, did you change the fuel lines' routing?

 

If you have just pulled the tank then it is def worth a look - the two washers I mean are the ones that go on the end of the fuel rail between the fuel line banjo and the fuel rail/end nut. They are two 12mm aluminium crush washers, they are a very narrow external diameter though.

I bought 2 of the honda ones at £2.50 each (RIP OFF!!)

this is the part number:
SKU: 90428-PD6-003
WASHER, SEALING (12MM) (Honda Code 2128429)

and this site is where i get my part numbers
http://www.hondapartshouse.net/pages...d/7/Honda.aspx


The problem I had was that I had pulled the tank a few times and the washers were over used and rock hard - meaning they didnt seal properly.


If you dont wanna pay the honda prices you could probably use a pair of 12mm aluminium crush washers like the ones on the sump plug and dremel a few bits off get it to fit with the fuel banjo.

make sure you torque it down nice and tight (if you dont have a torque wrench) and be sure to hold the fuel rail still with a 17mm spanner so you dont knacker the inlet rubbers that the throttle body sits on.

 

I had similar problems with my f2. If I was just cruising it would be ok then out of no were it would buckle hard after I would get on it good. Here the line was kinked