F4i fuel pump not priming/injectors getting power when bike is OFF?
#31
Sorry, I made mistake on jumpering fuel pump. I had pink wire on my mind when posting fuel-pumo test and had you ground it. Of course it would blow things..
I updated fuel-pump test above by having you ground fuel-pump relay. It pump runs by manual triggering, we can put that to rest and not worry about it ever again as entire circuit is functional.
I updated fuel-pump test above by having you ground fuel-pump relay. It pump runs by manual triggering, we can put that to rest and not worry about it ever again as entire circuit is functional.
also the burst was pretty dope like it sparked then popped lmao made me dookie my draws a little bit
#32
Ok, the 5.4v one looks better. Wouldn't hurt to use it. Maybe get some 4.9v diodes if they exist.
Meanwhile, let's test your fuel-pump circuit:
1. disconnect ECU and store it in safe static-free location
2. key ON/stop-switch=RUN
3. get short section of thin wire with stripped ends to use as jumper
4a. on ECU Blk connector, bridge terminal brn/blk#6 to Lg connector grn #12, does pump run???
4b. on ECU Blk connector, bridge terminal brn/blk#6 to chassis-ground, does pump run???
If pump runs, then entire fuel-pump circuit from battery through ign-switch, kill-switch, eng-stop relay, fuel-pump relay, wiring and pump is fully operational. DO NOT waste any time on those. Shouldn't have wasted any time on pump ever because it was never problem.
ONLY THING THAT'S EVER BEEN WRONG IS GETTING 9.0V ON PINK WIRE!!! DO NOT WASTE TIME ON ANYTHING ELSE!!!
Meanwhile, let's test your fuel-pump circuit:
1. disconnect ECU and store it in safe static-free location
2. key ON/stop-switch=RUN
3. get short section of thin wire with stripped ends to use as jumper
4a. on ECU Blk connector, bridge terminal brn/blk#6 to Lg connector grn #12, does pump run???
4b. on ECU Blk connector, bridge terminal brn/blk#6 to chassis-ground, does pump run???
If pump runs, then entire fuel-pump circuit from battery through ign-switch, kill-switch, eng-stop relay, fuel-pump relay, wiring and pump is fully operational. DO NOT waste any time on those. Shouldn't have wasted any time on pump ever because it was never problem.
ONLY THING THAT'S EVER BEEN WRONG IS GETTING 9.0V ON PINK WIRE!!! DO NOT WASTE TIME ON ANYTHING ELSE!!!
4a. on ECU Blk connector, bridge terminal brn/blk#6 to Lg connector grn #12, does pump run YES
4b. on ECU Blk connector, bridge terminal brn/blk#6 to chassis-ground, does pump run NO
#33
After you've unsoldered non-working diode, do this test:
1. key OFF, measure voltage at red input wire, volts = 14.3V
2. measure voltage at bare terminal closest to red input wire, volts = 0V
3. measure voltage at bare terminal closest to pink output wire, volts = 0V
4. measure voltage at pink output wire, volts = 0V
5. key ON, measure voltage at red input wire, volts = 14.1V
6. measure voltage at bare terminal closest to red input wire, volts = 0V
7. measure voltage at bare terminal closest to pink output wire, volts = 13.9V
8. measure voltage at pink output wire, volts = 0V
1. key OFF, measure voltage at red input wire, volts = 14.3V
2. measure voltage at bare terminal closest to red input wire, volts = 0V
3. measure voltage at bare terminal closest to pink output wire, volts = 0V
4. measure voltage at pink output wire, volts = 0V
5. key ON, measure voltage at red input wire, volts = 14.1V
6. measure voltage at bare terminal closest to red input wire, volts = 0V
7. measure voltage at bare terminal closest to pink output wire, volts = 13.9V
8. measure voltage at pink output wire, volts = 0V
1. Remove diode from ignition-switch.
2. key ON, measure at harness side of ignition-switch connector:
3. red wire, volts = ???
4. red/blk wire, volts = ???
5. blu/org wire, volts = ???
6. pnk wire, volts = ???
Also map which wires from harness connect to which on ign-switch side:
red -> ???
red/blk -> ???
blu/org -> ???
pnk -> ???
Depending on what you measure and map above, we might just need to splice diode inline with pink wire between ign-switch and harness connector. Similar to what was done here: https://www.600rr.net/threads/2003-c...l-pump.591358/
#34
Yeah, switch is not wired internally properly. That’s Ok, we can wire in diode inline with pink wire instead. Let’s figure how it really is wired and go from there. Also of concern is power to fan circuit since that’s on separate wire as well.
1. Remove diode from ignition-switch.
2. key ON, measure at harness side of ignition-switch connector:
3. red wire, volts = ???
4. red/blk wire, volts = ???
5. blu/org wire, volts = ???
6. pnk wire, volts = ???
Also map which wires from harness connect to which on ign-switch side:
red -> ???
red/blk -> ???
blu/org -> ???
pnk -> ???
Depending on what you measure and map above, we might just need to splice diode inline with pink wire between ign-switch and harness connector. Similar to what was done here: https://www.600rr.net/threads/2003-c...l-pump.591358/
1. Remove diode from ignition-switch.
2. key ON, measure at harness side of ignition-switch connector:
3. red wire, volts = ???
4. red/blk wire, volts = ???
5. blu/org wire, volts = ???
6. pnk wire, volts = ???
Also map which wires from harness connect to which on ign-switch side:
red -> ???
red/blk -> ???
blu/org -> ???
pnk -> ???
Depending on what you measure and map above, we might just need to splice diode inline with pink wire between ign-switch and harness connector. Similar to what was done here: https://www.600rr.net/threads/2003-c...l-pump.591358/
red-red
blu/orn-blu/orn
pink-pink
measuring the plug
red wire, volts = 12.7V
red/blk wire, volts = 12.7V
blu/org wire, volts = 12.7V
pnk wire, volts = 0V
#35
Ok, we might be able to make this work. Let's do some testing before soldering on 5.4v diode you have.
1. set up meter to measure voltage at pink wire at ign-switch connector at harness
2. key ON, should be 0-volts
3. carefully touch diode to contacts, black-stripe towards red power, volts = ???
4. carefully touch diode to contacts, black-stripe towards pink, volts = ???
IF one of these orientations gets you close to 9.0v or slightly less, then solder on diode.
Also do pump-trigger test in post #22 with updated procedure:
https://cbrforum.com/forum/general-t...3/#post1359619
1. set up meter to measure voltage at pink wire at ign-switch connector at harness
2. key ON, should be 0-volts
3. carefully touch diode to contacts, black-stripe towards red power, volts = ???
4. carefully touch diode to contacts, black-stripe towards pink, volts = ???
IF one of these orientations gets you close to 9.0v or slightly less, then solder on diode.
Also do pump-trigger test in post #22 with updated procedure:
https://cbrforum.com/forum/general-t...3/#post1359619
The following users liked this post:
Micaelbizzap (05-26-2024)
#36
Ok, we might be able to make this work. Let's do some testing before soldering on 5.4v diode you have.
1. set up meter to measure voltage at pink wire at ign-switch connector at harness
2. key ON, should be 0-volts
3. carefully touch diode to contacts, black-stripe towards red power, volts = ???
4. carefully touch diode to contacts, black-stripe towards pink, volts = ???
IF one of these orientations gets you close to 9.0v or slightly less, then solder on diode.
Also do pump-trigger test in post #22 with updated procedure:
https://cbrforum.com/forum/general-t...3/#post1359619
1. set up meter to measure voltage at pink wire at ign-switch connector at harness
2. key ON, should be 0-volts
3. carefully touch diode to contacts, black-stripe towards red power, volts = ???
4. carefully touch diode to contacts, black-stripe towards pink, volts = ???
IF one of these orientations gets you close to 9.0v or slightly less, then solder on diode.
Also do pump-trigger test in post #22 with updated procedure:
https://cbrforum.com/forum/general-t...3/#post1359619
Black stripe towards red = 12.3V
Black stripe towards pink = 8.8V
#37
Also do pump-trigger test in post #22 with updated procedure:
https://cbrforum.com/forum/general-t...3/#post1359619
4b- Worked
#40
Alright!!! Solder in that diode with black-stripe towards pink!
Then key ON/stop-switch=RUN, does ECU prime pump?
Double-check that pink-wire at ECU connector measures same 8.8v as at ignition-switch.
If ECU's not priming pump, then its driver-transistor for pump-relay is fried from having battery-power applied directly at some point in past trying to trigger pump manually. Confirm this by trying your ECU on another F4i that is running properly. And trying its ECU on your bike.
Then key ON/stop-switch=RUN, does ECU prime pump?
Double-check that pink-wire at ECU connector measures same 8.8v as at ignition-switch.
If ECU's not priming pump, then its driver-transistor for pump-relay is fried from having battery-power applied directly at some point in past trying to trigger pump manually. Confirm this by trying your ECU on another F4i that is running properly. And trying its ECU on your bike.
Last edited by dannoxyz; 05-26-2024 at 07:20 PM.