battery has voltage difference cus i measured without it on the tender then threw it on, also what diode should i throw on I have the 3.3V diode on with black stripe facing red power wires but obviously it aint correct

 

Ok, the 5.4v one looks better. Wouldn't hurt to use it. Maybe get some 4.9v diodes if they exist.

Meanwhile, let's test your fuel-pump circuit:


1. disconnect ECU and store it in safe static-free location

2. key ON/stop-switch=RUN

3. get short section of thin wire with stripped ends to use as jumper

4a. on ECU Blk connector, bridge terminal brn/blk#6 to Lg connector grn #12, does pump run???

4b. on ECU Blk connector, bridge terminal brn/blk#6 to chassis-ground, does pump run???


If pump runs, then entire fuel-pump circuit from battery through ign-switch, kill-switch, eng-stop relay, fuel-pump relay, wiring and pump is fully operational. DO NOT waste any time on those. Shouldn't have wasted any time on pump ever because it was never problem.

ONLY THING THAT'S EVER BEEN WRONG IS GETTING 9.0V ON PINK WIRE!!! DO NOT WASTE TIME ON ANYTHING ELSE!!!

 

Might have been damaged by heat of soldering. Don't heat each joint for more than 2-3 sec max. Blow on it during contact to keep diode cool. Let fully cool for 30-sec. before doing 2nd joint.

Also possible that this aftermarket switch isn't wired internally correctly.



After you've unsoldered non-working diode, do this test:

1. key OFF, measure voltage at red input wire, volts = ???

2. measure voltage at bare terminal closest to red input wire, volts = ???

3. measure voltage at bare terminal closest to pink output wire, volts = ???

4. measure voltage at pink output wire, volts = ???


5. key ON, measure voltage at red input wire, volts = ???

6. measure voltage at bare terminal closest to red input wire, volts = ???

7. measure voltage at bare terminal closest to pink output wire, volts = ???

8. measure voltage at pink output wire, volts = ???

 

After you've unsoldered non-working diode, do this test:

1. key OFF, measure voltage at red input wire, volts = 14.3V

2. measure voltage at bare terminal closest to red input wire, volts = 0V

3. measure voltage at bare terminal closest to pink output wire, volts = 0V

4. measure voltage at pink output wire, volts = 0V


5. key ON, measure voltage at red input wire, volts = 14.1V

6. measure voltage at bare terminal closest to red input wire, volts = 0V

7. measure voltage at bare terminal closest to pink output wire, volts = 13.9V

8. measure voltage at pink output wire, volts = 0V

 

I soldered the 5.4 and get 11.9V to pink wire so perhaps this switch is wired wrong

 

Alright so I soldered in a new 5.4V and I blew on it (no homo) and made sure i wasnt on it too much and now I get 8.8V so it was defo my fault

 

nvm i did it backwards and went to jump lg #19 with lg #12 and it popped lmao I shall go back to the drawing board

 

the drawing board says none of them give me 9v

I placed them on the terminals black stripe facing red/blk wire and all four of them give me 12.2V

and obviously I cant place them backwards cus they will pop like a kernel in the microwave

whats the plan now?

 

all four being 3.3V 5.4V 9.1V and 10V diode
but when i place them backwards they give me each different voltage like the 5.4 gave me 8.8V so thats why i soldered it to the terminals then i went to jump the Light gray ecu plug and it popped

 

Sorry, I made mistake on jumpering fuel pump. I had pink wire on my mind when posting fuel-pump test and had you ground it. Of course it would blow things..

I updated fuel-pump test above by having you ground fuel-pump relay. If pump runs by manual triggering, we can put that to rest and not worry about it ever again as entire circuit is functional.