Even after the biked is warm...
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Siggy Maker & All Round Good Guy
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 542
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From: Southern Cali baby!
Even after the biked is warm...
Okay so when i go and start my bike in the morning i let it warm up. Today i just noticed though from revving the throttle that if i pull back too fast the bike will falter before revving and if i pull back fast enough the instant i have her opened the engine will die. I have tried this on multiple choke setting and the same thing happens. I now know why my wheelies arent going up. Slow throttle response time.
Shouldnt it respond right away?
How can i fix this?
How can i get my throttle to respond faster?
Edit: after i let it get a little hotter it wasnt so bad but still feels like it should be faster. after letting it idle for like five mins it would'nt die when yanking the throttle but seems a bit slow still.
Shouldnt it respond right away?
How can i fix this?
How can i get my throttle to respond faster?
Edit: after i let it get a little hotter it wasnt so bad but still feels like it should be faster. after letting it idle for like five mins it would'nt die when yanking the throttle but seems a bit slow still.
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Siggy Maker & All Round Good Guy
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 542
Likes: 0
From: Southern Cali baby!
RE: Even after the biked is warm...
Hmmm, yeah my batt was dead a week or so ago... i hope thats it. )i have the battery fully charged now)
Would i find out how to sync carbs in the manual?
Would i find out how to sync carbs in the manual?
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 2,492
Likes: 0
From: Northern Michigan
RE: Even after the biked is warm...
In order to sync the carbs, you will need a syncrozing tool. there are a couple of different styles. There are ones that are basically lines filled with mercury, or now some other substance..Im not sure what it is, butits in a liquid form. Or dial type. I dont trust the dial type as much as the mercury ones. The mercury ones pull from the same vat, the dial ones are all independant gauges and can lead to inconsistancy.
You will also need an adjuster tool. They run about 30 bucks. They are basically a long scew driver that has a 90 deg .angle.
If you plan on keep this bike and or working on others, you may want to buy one. They run about 100-200 bucks for decent ones. Or, if you know of a garage that will lend tools, that would be the other route.
Syncronizing them is pretty straight forward and pretty easy. You basically just hook up each hose to the vaccum source on each carb, look at the gauges, and get them all the same. basically set one, them make the others match the #1 carb as it is the only one that is not adjustable.
You will also need an adjuster tool. They run about 30 bucks. They are basically a long scew driver that has a 90 deg .angle.
If you plan on keep this bike and or working on others, you may want to buy one. They run about 100-200 bucks for decent ones. Or, if you know of a garage that will lend tools, that would be the other route.
Syncronizing them is pretty straight forward and pretty easy. You basically just hook up each hose to the vaccum source on each carb, look at the gauges, and get them all the same. basically set one, them make the others match the #1 carb as it is the only one that is not adjustable.
Official CBRF Welcome Crew Undercover Agent
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,907
Likes: 1
From: Colorado, U.S.A.
RE: Even after the biked is warm...
Here's a thread on how-to make your own carb-sync-tool.
http://www.r6central.com/forums/r6-h...sync-tool.html
http://www.r6central.com/forums/r6-h...sync-tool.html
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Siggy Maker & All Round Good Guy
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 542
Likes: 0
From: Southern Cali baby!
RE: Even after the biked is warm...
ORIGINAL: justasquid
In order to sync the carbs, you will need a syncrozing tool. there are a couple of different styles. There are ones that are basically lines filled with mercury, or now some other substance..Im not sure what it is, butits in a liquid form. Or dial type. I dont trust the dial type as much as the mercury ones. The mercury ones pull from the same vat, the dial ones are all independant gauges and can lead to inconsistancy.
You will also need an adjuster tool. They run about 30 bucks. They are basically a long scew driver that has a 90 deg .angle.
If you plan on keep this bike and or working on others, you may want to buy one. They run about 100-200 bucks for decent ones. Or, if you know of a garage that will lend tools, that would be the other route.
Syncronizing them is pretty straight forward and pretty easy. You basically just hook up each hose to the vaccum source on each carb, look at the gauges, and get them all the same. basically set one, them make the others match the #1 carb as it is the only one that is not adjustable.
In order to sync the carbs, you will need a syncrozing tool. there are a couple of different styles. There are ones that are basically lines filled with mercury, or now some other substance..Im not sure what it is, butits in a liquid form. Or dial type. I dont trust the dial type as much as the mercury ones. The mercury ones pull from the same vat, the dial ones are all independant gauges and can lead to inconsistancy.
You will also need an adjuster tool. They run about 30 bucks. They are basically a long scew driver that has a 90 deg .angle.
If you plan on keep this bike and or working on others, you may want to buy one. They run about 100-200 bucks for decent ones. Or, if you know of a garage that will lend tools, that would be the other route.
Syncronizing them is pretty straight forward and pretty easy. You basically just hook up each hose to the vaccum source on each carb, look at the gauges, and get them all the same. basically set one, them make the others match the #1 carb as it is the only one that is not adjustable.
Thanx guys
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