So currently my headlight is connected to the green power wire and the wire coming from it is one of the left over running light wires (light blue/wht i believe)
This is the only way currently for me to have a headlight. I have been in and wired the set up correctly following the diagram, but there is no circuit when wired to the correct blue headlight wire and the light doesn't turn on at all. I've considered buying an OEM new front wiring harness, but I want to know if you CBRF'ers might know the issue? I dont want to buy the 55 dollar harness only to have whatever issue it is not be in that section. I'm guessing there is something wrong with the ground since the blue wire and beyond in the path (I think leads off to ground) is what isnt working.

Additionally, in the headlight that I have rigged up, the wire is running too hot and where the green wire is connected to the headlight it melts the electrical tape around it. For this issue, is e-tape just ineffective or should it not be melting it?

 

The Green wire is the ground wire for both the Low Beam and the High Beam. The Blue wire is strictly for the High Beam circuit. The Blue/White wire is for low beam. The Blue/White wire should have 12v on it whenever the ignition switch is turned on. If it doesn't check the 10A fuse. You could also have a problem with the Starter Switch too. Sometimes the solder joints break inside the switch and you'll loose your headlights altogether. There is a Headlight Relay that is controlled by the Dimmer Switch on the left clip-on. When flipped to High, then 12v is supplied to the White wire going to the Headlight Relay turning it on. That closes the contact between the Black/Red wire and the Blue wire that feeds the High Beam.

I hope this helps.

 

Ok if the green wire that everything (I know this path way is fine because everything else electrical works fine and it's all connected to the green one) is connected to is the ground, then it's the blue and blue/wht ones that aren't working. So power isn't being sent to the headlights.

It's very specifically the headlight pathway, everything else electrical on the bike works fine, starts without a stutter all that good stuff. Just the darn headlights wnt work well. I mean, for now it's fine, I have headlights, running off the runninglight wires I had leftover when I got flushmount turn sigs. But I do plan on converting to HID's and I'm thinking this issue will cause problems for that


EDIT: all my fuses are fine

 

Only way to work it, that I know, is start with a VOM and trace the hot to find the break. Follow it through to the switch and ignition. You can do voltage checks at the contacts to ground.

If you want to do a continuity check on the wires (for breaks) without dis-assembling the switches (and then using the contacts, themselves), grab a couple if straight pins, run them through the center of the wire at each end. That pierces the insulation without really damaging it. That allows you to check for continuity on that particular part of the run.

Remember to include across the switch itself using this method, or you won't know whether the switch works properly.

All continuity checks are done with the ignition OFF.
Voltage test are done with the ignition ON.

Hope this helps, Ern

 

If you have nothing coming from the Blue/White wire, then the most likely culprit is the Starter Switch. The starter switch has 2 sets of contacts in it. 1 for the starter and the other for the Headlight. When you hit the starter switch the contacts for the headlight open, turning off the headlight and the starter contacts close, putting power to the Start Relay. Here is what it looks like when it's broken on an F3. I suspect the F4i is similar.

 

I'll let you know, and take pictures once I get the courage to pop open things >_< I have zero electrical knowledge save what I've picked up researching

 

Excellent! I didn't realise it went through a relay. Makes sense for those cold mornings. Thanks IDoDirt!
Ern