Daytona heated grips issue
Thank you for allowing me to post this thread, all help is appreciated.
I have bought heated grips from Daytona for my Honda cbr 600 F4I F Sport from 2001. These grips have a feature where it cuts off the heating function automatically (if turned on) when the grips measure the battery´s Voltage(V) is under 12VDC.
In other words, the grips require a battery voltage of DC12V or higher to operate.
Now I have only ridden the bike for 1 run after the grips have been installed, mostly traffic. I had no success getting the heating function to work, during the 1-hour commute. I was getting the indication that the function was switching off due the lack of 12 VDC.
I have until now been convincing myself that I would change the battery out, with one of higher Ah (Amp Hours) to solve the issue. But I am thinking more and more that this probably won’t solve this issue. Or maybe I’m wrong?
During cold weather, and several days outside without running, I don’t have any issue starting it, leading to maybe out ruling a bad battery issue.
Could this maybe be a generator (Stator/rotor) issue instead?
I am lacking a bit of knowledge of how the motorcycle distributes electrical power to consumer components when running above idle? Directly from battery or directly from the generator? Or a mix of both dependent of conditions?
I have bought heated grips from Daytona for my Honda cbr 600 F4I F Sport from 2001. These grips have a feature where it cuts off the heating function automatically (if turned on) when the grips measure the battery´s Voltage(V) is under 12VDC.
In other words, the grips require a battery voltage of DC12V or higher to operate.
Now I have only ridden the bike for 1 run after the grips have been installed, mostly traffic. I had no success getting the heating function to work, during the 1-hour commute. I was getting the indication that the function was switching off due the lack of 12 VDC.
I have until now been convincing myself that I would change the battery out, with one of higher Ah (Amp Hours) to solve the issue. But I am thinking more and more that this probably won’t solve this issue. Or maybe I’m wrong?
During cold weather, and several days outside without running, I don’t have any issue starting it, leading to maybe out ruling a bad battery issue.
Could this maybe be a generator (Stator/rotor) issue instead?
I am lacking a bit of knowledge of how the motorcycle distributes electrical power to consumer components when running above idle? Directly from battery or directly from the generator? Or a mix of both dependent of conditions?
You can quickly check the battery voltage across the terminals with a multi-meter which will tell you how the system is functioning.
Bike off with a fully charged battery it should read between 13 - 13.2v dc
With bike running and headlights on full beam, rev to 5000 the battery voltage should be around 15v dc and less than 15.5v dc.
The stator is an AC constant output that the Rectifier / Regulator converts to DC then charges the battery and bike systems in parallel (i think) and then if any excess power is left dumps as heat
Bike off with a fully charged battery it should read between 13 - 13.2v dc
With bike running and headlights on full beam, rev to 5000 the battery voltage should be around 15v dc and less than 15.5v dc.
The stator is an AC constant output that the Rectifier / Regulator converts to DC then charges the battery and bike systems in parallel (i think) and then if any excess power is left dumps as heat
you have no idea what voltage is until you measure.
how are grips wiring installed?
tapping into existing wiring somewhere?
Best to modify factory in any way. Run all NEW wiring for grips directly to battery.
This is 5-minute fix with miltimeter
how are grips wiring installed?
tapping into existing wiring somewhere?
Best to modify factory in any way. Run all NEW wiring for grips directly to battery.
This is 5-minute fix with miltimeter
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