Clutch Cable is over extended ?
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Clutch Cable is over extended ?
Hello people,
so I tried to change the clutch lever, and when I did It was so out of place, seems like the clutch cable is so extended that the lever doesn't really work as you can see in the picture.
I tried then to install the previous one, and the same issue happened, wanted to note that I did not adjust the clutch cable, so hopefully, someone can help me with that.
TL;DR: check the picture and tell me what I did wrong when installing the lever
so I tried to change the clutch lever, and when I did It was so out of place, seems like the clutch cable is so extended that the lever doesn't really work as you can see in the picture.
I tried then to install the previous one, and the same issue happened, wanted to note that I did not adjust the clutch cable, so hopefully, someone can help me with that.
TL;DR: check the picture and tell me what I did wrong when installing the lever
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 522
Likes: 30
From: wales
You should have enough adjustment to cure this providing you have the correct cable.
In the image you posted you have one adjuster, (the threaded slotted bolt and is lock ring) and on the other end of the cable, near the clutch pivot arm you should have another.
At the clutch leaver, you can wind out the adjuster out for a start, just to get a feel of what your going to have to do. You will notice the leaver start to return to a more suitable position with tension on it as you proceed.
The adjuster at the bottom will also have an effect when used.
Work both adjusters in union and aim to leave the leaver end for the final adjustment of bite point. You don't really want too much thread hanging out up there and try to loose most of it down the other end.
Sorry about my hopeless description.....you have adjustment both ends, just play with it and you'll find it
In the image you posted you have one adjuster, (the threaded slotted bolt and is lock ring) and on the other end of the cable, near the clutch pivot arm you should have another.
At the clutch leaver, you can wind out the adjuster out for a start, just to get a feel of what your going to have to do. You will notice the leaver start to return to a more suitable position with tension on it as you proceed.
The adjuster at the bottom will also have an effect when used.
Work both adjusters in union and aim to leave the leaver end for the final adjustment of bite point. You don't really want too much thread hanging out up there and try to loose most of it down the other end.
Sorry about my hopeless description.....you have adjustment both ends, just play with it and you'll find it
Thread Starter
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Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
You should have enough adjustment to cure this providing you have the correct cable.
In the image you posted you have one adjuster, (the threaded slotted bolt and is lock ring) and on the other end of the cable, near the clutch pivot arm you should have another.
At the clutch leaver, you can wind out the adjuster out for a start, just to get a feel of what your going to have to do. You will notice the leaver start to return to a more suitable position with tension on it as you proceed.
The adjuster at the bottom will also have an effect when used.
Work both adjusters in union and aim to leave the leaver end for the final adjustment of bite point. You don't really want too much thread hanging out up there and try to loose most of it down the other end.
Sorry about my hopeless description.....you have adjustment both ends, just play with it and you'll find it
In the image you posted you have one adjuster, (the threaded slotted bolt and is lock ring) and on the other end of the cable, near the clutch pivot arm you should have another.
At the clutch leaver, you can wind out the adjuster out for a start, just to get a feel of what your going to have to do. You will notice the leaver start to return to a more suitable position with tension on it as you proceed.
The adjuster at the bottom will also have an effect when used.
Work both adjusters in union and aim to leave the leaver end for the final adjustment of bite point. You don't really want too much thread hanging out up there and try to loose most of it down the other end.
Sorry about my hopeless description.....you have adjustment both ends, just play with it and you'll find it
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 522
Likes: 30
From: wales
Could you tell us how you went about changing your lever please. The reason I ask is because if you didn't release slack onto the lever, I'm guessing it was robbed from the bottom by pulling on it to get it off.
In your attached picture the adjuster is wound all the way in. Did you install it like this or does the threaded section just pop all the way in ? That wouldn't be helpful.
Check the other end of the cable, with that amount of slack you should be able to pull the lever backwards from the bottom. Wind the top adjuster out 10-15mm as well, it's no good in the current position. Was your clutch working before you changed the lever?
Cheers
In your attached picture the adjuster is wound all the way in. Did you install it like this or does the threaded section just pop all the way in ? That wouldn't be helpful.
Check the other end of the cable, with that amount of slack you should be able to pull the lever backwards from the bottom. Wind the top adjuster out 10-15mm as well, it's no good in the current position. Was your clutch working before you changed the lever?
Cheers
Last edited by wes 17; Apr 28, 2017 at 01:06 PM. Reason: Ideas
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@wes17
Yes, it was working, and as I said I even installed the previous lever again.
I changed the lever by unscrewing the lever then getting the clutch cable out, then placed that circle thingy at the end of the clutch cable inside the hole for the new lever and let the cable run through the specific place inside the lever and that's all
Yes, it was working, and as I said I even installed the previous lever again.
I changed the lever by unscrewing the lever then getting the clutch cable out, then placed that circle thingy at the end of the clutch cable inside the hole for the new lever and let the cable run through the specific place inside the lever and that's all
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 522
Likes: 30
From: wales
If the lever has no tension at all, pop the clutch cable out of the lower pivot arm and pull the cable downwards. Move that lever with the cable ! Let's make sure the cables in one piece.
If it moves as it should, use the bottom adjuster and reattach. Make sure you have the top adjuster out a bit as said in earlier post.
I do hope that the lower pivot arm has been attached all this time lol
If it moves as it should, use the bottom adjuster and reattach. Make sure you have the top adjuster out a bit as said in earlier post.
I do hope that the lower pivot arm has been attached all this time lol
Last edited by wes 17; Apr 29, 2017 at 06:42 PM. Reason: Afterthought
Thread Starter
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Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2017
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If the lever has no tension at all, pop the clutch cable out of the lower pivot arm and pull the cable downwards. Move that lever with the cable ! Let's make sure the cables in one piece.
If it moves as it should, use the bottom adjuster and reattach. Make sure you have the top adjuster out a bit as said in earlier post.
I do hope that the lower pivot arm has been attached all this time lol
If it moves as it should, use the bottom adjuster and reattach. Make sure you have the top adjuster out a bit as said in earlier post.
I do hope that the lower pivot arm has been attached all this time lol