cbr 600 f2 fuel rail leaking
#1
cbr 600 f2 fuel rail leaking
i cleaned the carbs good, i thought i had a float stuck. turns out the line going into the carb is leaking. i havnt taken them off completly, but can see the fuel rail on the right side is leaking bad! how do i fix this? also it moves{metel fuel line going into carbs} a little, but its supposed to move a little right? is there a gasket in there? or rubber seal? i cant see how to get that peice out but havnt had them apart either. any help would be great.
#2
#3
Which carb are you leaking from? If it's between 2 and 3, then it's a plastic T which two O-Rings on each side. These go out pretty quickly so that might be it. I bought an O-ring kit from Autozone and used that. It has a wide selection in there. I used a really small one and stretched it to fit because the proper size ring was too large. Stretched it made a perfect fit. Once it's in there it will be ok until the day you have to clean them again because once you pull it out, you're gonna destroy the seal that was created from the gas eating away at the rubber.
#4
I'm in the same boat. Anyone know how to get that plastic "T" part off to replace o'rings?
Which carb are you leaking from? If it's between 2 and 3, then it's a plastic T which two O-Rings on each side. These go out pretty quickly so that might be it. I bought an O-ring kit from Autozone and used that. It has a wide selection in there. I used a really small one and stretched it to fit because the proper size ring was too large. Stretched it made a perfect fit. Once it's in there it will be ok until the day you have to clean them again because once you pull it out, you're gonna destroy the seal that was created from the gas eating away at the rubber.
#5
#7
First off it is a good idea to bring a camera and photo every phase before you remove anything so you see what goes where and how. Also take note that if you disassemble the carb battery you need to perform a carb sync afterwards.
First you need to remove the choke assembly. Take note where the return spring goes.
Now I'm not entirely sure as it's been a while but there should be two metal rods with threads and nuts in the ends that go through all four carbs. Remove the nuts from the other end and pull the rods out. Now the carbs should come apart with little negotiating with a screwdriver or a small prybar. Note that there are tiny springs in the throttle valve linkage that will happily bounce off and fly under the darkest corner of the table so catch them or better yet remove before taking them apart. Now you can swap the o-rings in the T-couplings. When you go buy new ones make sure you got the ones that endure petrol products. They look identical to the ones that don't. Some recommend getting a seal kit with new carb bowl seals too, I've never changed them and haven't had a leak but they might tear or stretch when you remove the carb bowls.
Now that you have swapped the o-rings comes the fun part. There are aligning pegs between the carbs, there are the vacuum T:s and the fuel T:s as well as the throttle linkage. ALL of these must align to get the carbs back together. It's not hard, the only gnarly bit is the aforementioned tiny spring that has to go into the linkage between the carbs. Once you get them all together refit the two rods and tighten the nuts.
While you're at it also check the vacuum slide chambers on the topside for any sand or other crud. Take note how the membrane goes into the groove, if you can, get a spare set of fingers to help you keep the seal edge in the groove when you put the lid back down.
Hope this helps.
First you need to remove the choke assembly. Take note where the return spring goes.
Now I'm not entirely sure as it's been a while but there should be two metal rods with threads and nuts in the ends that go through all four carbs. Remove the nuts from the other end and pull the rods out. Now the carbs should come apart with little negotiating with a screwdriver or a small prybar. Note that there are tiny springs in the throttle valve linkage that will happily bounce off and fly under the darkest corner of the table so catch them or better yet remove before taking them apart. Now you can swap the o-rings in the T-couplings. When you go buy new ones make sure you got the ones that endure petrol products. They look identical to the ones that don't. Some recommend getting a seal kit with new carb bowl seals too, I've never changed them and haven't had a leak but they might tear or stretch when you remove the carb bowls.
Now that you have swapped the o-rings comes the fun part. There are aligning pegs between the carbs, there are the vacuum T:s and the fuel T:s as well as the throttle linkage. ALL of these must align to get the carbs back together. It's not hard, the only gnarly bit is the aforementioned tiny spring that has to go into the linkage between the carbs. Once you get them all together refit the two rods and tighten the nuts.
While you're at it also check the vacuum slide chambers on the topside for any sand or other crud. Take note how the membrane goes into the groove, if you can, get a spare set of fingers to help you keep the seal edge in the groove when you put the lid back down.
Hope this helps.
Last edited by Mattson; 06-25-2014 at 03:25 AM.
#8
Know where I can find that kit?
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