Sorry for the noob questions everyone... I really appreciate all your guys help!!

 

Sorry another thing... these are the burnt valves from my original engine, is any of it salvageable? could I get away with cleaning them and lapping
or full rebuild w/ seats cut and new valves new everything

Not sure about the other engine yet, but don't have much hope from you guys' assessment of the rust




Thanks so much in advance

 

good looking cylendars.
A ball hone only cleans doesn't cut. when you see it youll understand. No coating no fuss 8-10 passes and itll look mirrored in the cyl. They look good now.
On end of drill attatch a flapper of 1400grit or finer (like a sewing needle just 100x bigger then thread strip of paper through it and it will clean out the ports and just about anything(that's why called a flapper). Valve seats.(99/100x they don't need be recut just cleaned.
The valves put them in drill chuck wrap stem in paper towel so don't leave chuck marks. Then on 1'' bench sander run against flow at ~100rpm and will make valves look like new. Hold head at ~45deg angle on belt also against flow and will give you a perfect orbital cut to your valves. then mic them up be sure you didn't take too much(really need to lean on it to do so or run it too long. Try the worse valve of the bunch 1st to get a handle on it.
Carb dip or a good parts cleaner will make most parts look new, will be able to brush away any tarnish or carbon buildup. A 5gal paint bucket makes for a decent cleaning basin and dip tank if needed. try getting the lid also.


ALSO its a ball hone not a Hone which has the 3 arms and the long cutting blocks.. A ball hone looks like a toilet brush, just at the end of each wire there is a BALL.. Hence BallHone.. The 3 armed setup can actually Bore the cylendar by adjusting adjusting adjusting.. Don't want that one.. No gouges to clean up.. minor scratches and less a ballhone can fix. and you just need get the shine back is all..


As far as how things wear.. The cyl gets bigger and the piston gets smaller.. So ur good there both are pretty much spec. think you cyl meas is off but no matter.


Rings, gaskets, crushbearings, bearing gauges(looks like colored dental floss), 75mm(there abouts) ballhone, dip/parts cleaner, flapper attachment for drill, 1400grit machine paper, drill motor, 1" mini tabletop belt sander, 5 gal bucket clean with lid, couple milk crates, tons of egg cartons, sharpies, a few boxes or 1gal ice cream buckets, a typical set of tools plus mics, toothbrushes and the like for cleaning, 1.5" putty knife, maybe soft brass wire brushes(but try to stay away from wire brushes 1st time out as they can scratch.. Im just guessing the piston tops may look sooo bad with carbon buildup so thick may need to scrape or brush to get to where the dip would even penetrate to loosen it up properly.. Just guessing.. Try not to use metal objects unless needed and avoid scratching things).
And you are pretty much ready to go. I know I left something out as I always leave something out and don't think of it until I need it.

 

exhaust valves look good for clean and go, the intakes are abit haggard but may just be buildup. On cyl1 intakes look like they've lost their edge maybe(cant tell if its pitted or carbon flecks), but you have 8 spares if they don't also clean up.
See how the exh valves all maintained their edges smooth and round that's good. They'll shine right up.
Ive seen much worse that looked great after a dip and scrub.
Pull the valves and poke them in a piece of cardboard in order, remove clean replace 1 at a time. Dip the stripped head a day then scrub then dip then scrub till it looks new.
Then measure valves(mark on cardboard) and seats, might have to switch them for best fit.
only if seats are really niked up do you need to cut and then very lightly.. very. Be sure to use the type with the rod that goes down the guide, not the freehand one, to guarantee angle of cut is square. tight fit in the guide, there are several sized rods use the largest that fits. But I expect wont need to cut any seats on a 17kM motor.

 

Take the head to a machine shop. Do it right. There is just too many things that can go wrong if you don't do them correctly, or even know to do them. Just the tools needed to do do it right will cost more that having it done by a professional.

So where is the compression lost?

I'm all for doing engines yourself, provided that you have the expertise to do it successfully. If you don't know exactly what your doing, it will become a nightmare quickly.

 

Those compression #'s are over 100psi off. You should have done a leak down test and figure out where it's coming from on your engine. Absolutely you can just hook up your battery to the starter. You don't even need the headers or intake on to read compression. There are a lot of YouTube videos that show you how to diagnose where your leak down is coming from. But mainly, you just want to make sure your bottom end is holding the compression. Do the compression check on the new engine. If the numbers are low, add a few drops of oil to the cylinder. If that boosts the compression - your rings are worn. If the numbers stay the same, the leak is in your top end. Obviously, if it comes back in the "minimal leak " zone, you should be fine.

The bore doesn't look bad on the jugs you posted. That doesn't mean much though from just a picture...


Demon is 100% correct on taking the head to a machine shop. Being in SoCal, you should have a few local options that are reasonable. They assemble the head and make sure your valves are properly seated, they make sure the head isn't warped or cracked. It makes too much sense not to do it that way. If you have 1 good%

 

JohnnyRocket - Thanks for the clarifications. Yeah the cyl measures are probably off. How I measured it was pretty ghetto, I used one of those small locking pliers ha. just wanted to get a rough estimate while I waited for mail. I received my id micrometers today, I'll be re measuring the cylinders soon
My original engine is 40k mi btw. yeah she's old...

74demon - The shop I took it to said it was my rings and valves and recommended a total rebuild because of the engine's mileage. For top and bottom rebuild they quoted me $2600, for just the top $2200. I'll call around some more..

Conrice - Yea I should have done a leakdown. I didnt think of it until too late. dumb me..
I did a leakdown on the new motor, Will do compression test soon
in 1 - leak
ex 1 - leak
cyl 1 - a little leak

in 2 - very little leak
ex 2 - leak a lot
cyl 2 - could barely hear anything; less than cyl 1

in 4 - medium leak
ex 4 - leak a lot
cyl 4 - leaks somewhat ..? (more than cyl 1)

in 3 - yes (tiny bit)
ex 3 - yes (tiny bit)
cyl 3 - yes (very little)

No other leaks so it seems the blocks themselves are ok
The exhaust valves leaked so much the motor wouldn't hold air long enough for me to get a % reading. Cyl 3 was the only one that would hold enough air, I got about 11~12% loss (70/62psi) couldn't get it to hold more air than that
I'm thinking maybe the valve clearances are off that's why it wouldn't hold air, either that or the valves/seats being way gunked up?

I'm hoping that at least cylinders (from old or new engine, whichever is better) can be reused with ballhoning and a re ring, etc. I dunno what I'm gonna do about the head, hopefully I can find somewhere that does it for less than $2200 but if I can't I 'll really have to think about it, that's like the rest of the bike's worth lmao. I've been thinking so much the last few days/nights thought about selling/parting everything out, to rebuilding myself talking myself up, to just throw my savings at the shop and have them do everything, to setting it on fire and forget about it hahaha. It was such a perfect day for a ride today. But I'll just have to do my best in the situation I got myself into.
Thank you everyone

 

That quote was labor included. A machine shop should be able to do a valve job for 500 or less.

 

That makes sense. I'll call around on Mon. Rest of it is just parts assembly correct? I have a valve spring compressor already

 

Basically, yes. But there is a ton of things that need to be assembled perfectly and with proper clearances and torques.