07 lowside, not running please help
#11
#12
I've got to pick up some RTV silicone, razor blades, and a fresh batch of oil since i'm just going the change the oil while i'm at it. can anyone recommend a good solvent for cleaning the gasket surface before i apply the silicone? Something tells me brake cleaner isn't the best thing to use.
#14
I'm looking through these posts here and I don't see where you have checked to see if you have primary (battery) voltage to your Direct Ignition Coils. Have you put a meter on those coils to see if you have 12v going to them ? If you do, what specifically is that voltage when you're trying to start the engine ? Does it drop a little, or does it drop a lot ?
#15
#16
OK, now you're getting somewhere. No 12V, no spark.
That should be a relatively easy thing to track down. All 4 coils receive power from White/Yellow wires through a 6 pin connector. The path is from the Battery, through the main 30A fuse, then the Ignition Switch, then a 10A fuse. These 3 items also feed the Engine Stop Switch which controls the Engine Stop Relay which goes to the BAS (Bank Angle Sensor). It should be an easy check to see if you have 12v at the White/Yellow wire that goes to the Engine Stop Switch. You would check from there to frame ground or the negative battery terminal. Which ever is easier.
That should be a relatively easy thing to track down. All 4 coils receive power from White/Yellow wires through a 6 pin connector. The path is from the Battery, through the main 30A fuse, then the Ignition Switch, then a 10A fuse. These 3 items also feed the Engine Stop Switch which controls the Engine Stop Relay which goes to the BAS (Bank Angle Sensor). It should be an easy check to see if you have 12v at the White/Yellow wire that goes to the Engine Stop Switch. You would check from there to frame ground or the negative battery terminal. Which ever is easier.
#17
update to my cbr nightmare.
after replacing the crank sensor, i've rechecked the coils. I'm getting 11.46 v DC to the coil when the key is on, but not cranking. Voltage drops to 10.9v when cranking. Voltage at spark plug is 9.0v at when cranking, but still no spark. Tried several different grounds. testing two coils and spark plugs. same results for both. Engine ground has continuity. I have power to the kill switch, bas, kickstand.
Why would i be getting power to the plugs, but not getting any spark?
after replacing the crank sensor, i've rechecked the coils. I'm getting 11.46 v DC to the coil when the key is on, but not cranking. Voltage drops to 10.9v when cranking. Voltage at spark plug is 9.0v at when cranking, but still no spark. Tried several different grounds. testing two coils and spark plugs. same results for both. Engine ground has continuity. I have power to the kill switch, bas, kickstand.
Why would i be getting power to the plugs, but not getting any spark?
#18
Ok, replacing the CKP sensor had no bearing on whether or not you had the 12v to the coils. You can't measure the voltage at the spark plugs with a meter alone. When the coil fires, you'll get several tens of thousands of volts coming out. Its a very short duration so your meter probably won't register it, however it could easily be damaged by it.
What is your battery voltage ? Can you jump it with a car battery ?
The CKP sensor you put in, was it new or used. If used, how do you know it's good ? Do you have a peak voltage adapter so you can test/verify the operation of the CKP sensor.
What is your battery voltage ? Can you jump it with a car battery ?
The CKP sensor you put in, was it new or used. If used, how do you know it's good ? Do you have a peak voltage adapter so you can test/verify the operation of the CKP sensor.
#19
battery voltage is 12 volts and goes to 14 when cranking, pulled right off the trickle charger and dropped into the bike. The CKP was new OEM. both CKP and CMP were replaced, only the CMP needed replacing though (just covering all bases since this is obviously an ignition problem). Checked ECU ground, and engine ground; both have continuity. Checked continuity from cmp to ecu: good. Checked continuity from ckp to ecu: good. Checked continuity from coil subharness to ecu: good. checked continuity from lock cylinder to ecu: good, same with clutch switch, kickstand switch, start/stop switch: all good. checked engine ground: good. The one thing i keep coming back to is the coil. I'm measuring ca. 11.5v at the coil subharness when the bike is on, but not cranking. That appears to be the proper initial voltage, it does drop to around 10v at crank, but that's expected since the starter motor is drawing a lot of that power. Might this problem have something to do with the amperage being put out by the secondary part of the coil?
I'm going to order at peak voltage adapter soon. Need $$!
P.s. Thanks for helping me with this. It's literally causing me to lose sleep.
I'm going to order at peak voltage adapter soon. Need $$!
P.s. Thanks for helping me with this. It's literally causing me to lose sleep.
Last edited by rober03; 02-27-2013 at 01:37 PM.