I have an 07' with a two bros slip on, K&N filter & recently swapped out drive sprockets for a -1. Afterwards I've noticed that my idle is normal once I start it up and let it run but after I rev it a few times it stays steadily on 1700 rpms. Also while riding in 1st and 2nd gear, when I shift the rpms don't fall at all. Anyone have any ideas on what could be the problem?

 

Guys I found that my idle returns to normal when I unplug the Map sensor, but the bike seems to chug. Anyone have a good way to diagnose if the map sensor is bad?

 

When you unplug the MAP sensor the ECM "replaces" its value to factory settings so the engine can still run(the bike seems to chug). What may be altering the idle on your bike is the throttle body or some actuator on it like a stepper motor, I.A.C.V.(normal idle at start up-rpm's don't fall afterwards), these last ones hardly will trigger the troublecode light (FI or similar with an engine drawn blinking) as for the MAP it most problably will trigger the troublecode light if it's defective. Pardon my english not my native language. To test a MAP you must know values to relate to, better get a workshop manual.

 

I`d go for "hondaowners" throttle body. Not sure of the condition of your cables but prob` a good idea to check the whole assembly. Remove the throttle body from the bars to do a decent job, strip it all down and clean well. Should have the snappy feel of a new bike if shes right. (How does it idle when warm...right rpm ?) If its not the solution, it was not a waste of time. Its a maintenance job done and taken it away from one of your possible causes.
This is just what I would do, others might try something else first. Best of luck mate

 

Thanks guys, it idles correctly when warm until I start revving the throttle. At that point is when the idle stays around 1700 rpm. The bike has 12,500 miles on it and the throttle seems to snap shut as it should but a good cleaning wouldn't hurt. I also ordered a IACV valve to see if thats my problem.

 

Howz that K&N filter sitting mate ? Have you "bonded" it with a grease to the airbox.

 

Filter seems to be sealing okay with just the two screws and that metal frame around it. I pulled the IACV yesterday and compared it to the new one I received and there is a big difference in the gapping. Im hoping that is it but I won't know till I start it up later today.

 

If can spare the time have a chat with your local dealer about the idling valve on those bikes or preferebly some other model that has them and if they fail often (source of failure- of course you don't want him to think you want to learn the secret of the trade). That's some sneaky and not requested advice, but shouldn't be taken as rude, but that's what I would do...

 

Thanks guys, I was on the right track replacing the IACV valve. I took my bike into the dealer to have them check it out and all they needed to do was hook it up to their diagnostic machine clear out some codes that I self inflicted on the bike and let the new IACV valve that I installed go through a 10 min idle. What the service tech told me is anything that you do thats part of the throttle or fuel injection system is to let it go through a 10 min warm up so the computer can adjust. $80 dollars later and my bike is back to normal.