' 02 954 overheating...
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' 02 954 overheating...
so a friend borrowed the bike, snapped the overflow bung (under the filler cap) off the radiator and lost the lower radiator mounting bolt. bung was repaired, bolt replaced, system pressurized, and still overheating. flush and thermostat change happened this morning, brand new honda part, and it started right up. bled the air, coolant levels are normal, the motor isn't terribly hot to the touch, and it's still overheating at idle. or at least it's saying so.
it's 70 degrees here today, breezy and sunny, and this thing is telling me it's running at 260 degrees and boiling over. which it's not. as soon as i'm on it, it runs at 234 degrees. this came out of nowhere, and the bike normally runs at 186 on average, and on a hot day idles in traffic 220-230 degrees.
i can only think of 2 other things, either the ECT is bad, or my radiator cap is shot. it really seems like it's a false reading though... took over 5 minutes for it to register any temperature at all.
any thoughts?
it's 70 degrees here today, breezy and sunny, and this thing is telling me it's running at 260 degrees and boiling over. which it's not. as soon as i'm on it, it runs at 234 degrees. this came out of nowhere, and the bike normally runs at 186 on average, and on a hot day idles in traffic 220-230 degrees.
i can only think of 2 other things, either the ECT is bad, or my radiator cap is shot. it really seems like it's a false reading though... took over 5 minutes for it to register any temperature at all.
any thoughts?
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you sure the fan is plugged in?
i did that once. that's what it sounds like to me since your getting it right back down to a lower temp once you're moving. easy way to tell is - did the fan come on when you were at the light?
if the rad. cap was bad - you'd be boiling over. if the thermostat was stuck closed - you wouldn't be cooling that fast once you take off from the stop.
i did that once. that's what it sounds like to me since your getting it right back down to a lower temp once you're moving. easy way to tell is - did the fan come on when you were at the light?
if the rad. cap was bad - you'd be boiling over. if the thermostat was stuck closed - you wouldn't be cooling that fast once you take off from the stop.
Last edited by Conrice; Oct 15, 2012 at 04:31 PM.
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fan is operating normally, and it comes on as it should, albeit seems earlier than normal, which makes sense, if something is giving a false reading, the fan would kick on when it's over 207 or whatever...
the motor feels normal to the touch, certainly no hotter than usual, i put water on the block and it doesn't evaporate immediately, which right there tells me it's probably not running at 260, as the temperature gauge indicates. and it certainly isn't boiling over.
i think ECT replacement is my next step, but is there anything else it could be? is this a common problem for a sensor to just **** the bed like that?
the motor feels normal to the touch, certainly no hotter than usual, i put water on the block and it doesn't evaporate immediately, which right there tells me it's probably not running at 260, as the temperature gauge indicates. and it certainly isn't boiling over.
i think ECT replacement is my next step, but is there anything else it could be? is this a common problem for a sensor to just **** the bed like that?
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