Where to buy cct replacement?
#11
I purchased my 2001 with 7k miles on it and a very bad cctl ALREADY. I swapped it out for the OEM automatic. My historic stock 2001 cctl had one orange dot on it The new OEM auto has 2 blue dots on it.
Cheapcycleparts has the best price on it. part # 14520-MBW-J23 (its really a J24 version) and the gasket 14523-MAL-A00.
Remember...its the cctl(lifter) and gasket you want.
I swapped mine 2500 miles ago and it humm's like a...well you know what I mean.... It "zipps" and sounds great! Every now and then, and its totally random..I will hear it rattle for a sec or two but that is ALWAYS going to happen by design of the cctl! Sometimes I will randomly hear it for a few seconds and think it may be my valves, buts whose valves are out of spec at under 10k miles ya know Then I realize, It's a HONDA...it makes all sorts a noises!!!
No no to APE
Cheapcycleparts has the best price on it. part # 14520-MBW-J23 (its really a J24 version) and the gasket 14523-MAL-A00.
Remember...its the cctl(lifter) and gasket you want.
I swapped mine 2500 miles ago and it humm's like a...well you know what I mean.... It "zipps" and sounds great! Every now and then, and its totally random..I will hear it rattle for a sec or two but that is ALWAYS going to happen by design of the cctl! Sometimes I will randomly hear it for a few seconds and think it may be my valves, buts whose valves are out of spec at under 10k miles ya know Then I realize, It's a HONDA...it makes all sorts a noises!!!
No no to APE
Last edited by 600F4inoober; 12-10-2010 at 01:49 PM.
#14
I side with the OEM in most cases. A lot of R&D goes into these components and they're there for a reason. The manual will work, but, like said earlier, is easy to goober it up easily. I just changed mine with a 'double blue dot', rode about 10k and everything sounds great so far. I'd say go with that..and the seal..all for around $80 from the dealer
#15
parts are gonna wear like they guy said. its not hard to put on in. take off the fairing two bolts and go. if you need to tighten a manual then you take off the fairings loosen the bolt, tighten the lifter then tighten the lock bolt. test it. then put the fairings back. if not. redo. the oem, just put it on and dont worry about it.
#16
I side with the OEM in most cases. A lot of R&D goes into these components and they're there for a reason. The manual will work, but, like said earlier, is easy to goober it up easily. I just changed mine with a 'double blue dot', rode about 10k and everything sounds great so far. I'd say go with that..and the seal..all for around $80 from the dealer
#18
you realize that its the "tip" that rattles, its not loose on the chain. when u tighten it up you tighten the chain (to put more pressure on the tip) and can start to put too much pressure on it and stretch the chain out. this can result in jumped timing and a screwed up engine, or at the least, youll have to break it apart to just put a new chain in it. honda has made like 4 new versions of the cctl since the f4i in 01. they r trying to get it to a point where it doesnt rattle, its not failing, its just making noise.
#19
well u dont dont wanna horribly over tighten it, just enough to at least reduce the rattle. if the noise gets better after giving the cctl a lil nudge then ill know thats my problem and probably replkace it afterwards. i dont wanna spend the money and effort on the new one if thats not gonna fix the problem