If you go down in the front or up in the back you will get quicker acceleration but less top speed.
If you go up in the front or down in the back you will get more top speed but slower acceleration.

 

may be a little off topic but... is replacing a chain/sprocket painful? or is it a managable diy job?

 

Anyone w/ a basic knowledge of how to use the proper tools for the job, can do this easily. "Incognito" has a really nice HOW-TO here... https://cbrforum.com/forum/how-mechanical-40/chain-sprocket-swap-97641/ . This is almost exactly how I do my sprocket & chain installs as well. You can do this!

Tell ya what, after you find out what it costs to have your shop do this for you, you'll be saying to yourself..."yeah, I think I'll do this & save some money." Sure, if you don't have the tools the first time, you'll have to buy those...but they will pay for themselves.

Good luck.

 

i would think it would depend on if you have a rear stand or not...to change to rear you'll need to pull the rear wheel. the remove the front you'll need to pull the cover. that being said, i would think it would be pretty DIYable provided you have a way to pull the rear wheel.

 

Wow! All kinds of questions and answers flying around in here! lol..

First off, the difference between a 525 and 520 is not pitch, it's chain roller width. The links of a 520/525/530 will be the same lengthwise. (hence the first number "5" which denotes a chains pitch in 8ths of an inch. All 5/8")

The second number in the chain size is the roller width. 525 chains have a 2.5/8" width. 530 chains have 3.0/8" width.

I hope this is all making sense because I'm not very good at explaining things.

Depends what you're asking, I suppose.....
-1/+2 etc is the gearing and doesn't have anything to do with the chain width. Gear ratio is front sprocket teeth vs. rear sprocket teeth. 16 up front and 46 in the rear will give you a ratio of 16:46 or 2.875 no matter what chain width you're running.

If you're asking whether a 525 chain can be run on a 520 sprocket.... technically yes.... but why prematurely wear the **** out of both?
A 520 chain won't fit on a 525 sprocket, tho. The sprocket would be too wide.

Now on the actual 520 vs. 525 debate.... it's my opinion that on the street you always want to go with the longer lasting stuff which would be the 525. Yeah, the 520 will be less mass but will you even be able to tell the difference? Is it worth a decrease in longevity? I don't believe so, but ymmv. (no pun intended... )

I say stick with steel sprockets in 525 and maybe go up a couple teeth in the rear or down one in the front if you want a little more jump off the line. I stick with +2 on the rear of my cbr because it gives slightly better accel while only moving my highway rpms by a few hundred. It's a fuel thing for me.


And on the DIY aspect of chain and sprocket changes... yeah, I'd buy the chain tool and do them yourself. It's not difficult, saves you money, and keeps you off the street (and away from my place...lol)
Plus, there's the satisfaction of doing it yourself and knowing it was done right. However, if you're Rich Uncle Pennybags and don't give a chit about cost then I wouldn't do it myself either.

Just remember to measure twice and cut once. I like the DID chain tool design, but not the $200 price tag. There are nice knock-offs for like $40 on fleabay. I have one and it works good. Like Xander said, though, you'll need a rear stand to get the wheel up. And when you're done, make sure the wheel is lined up and everything is installed correctly.

As far as chain brands.... Gold RK X-ring for me. RK chains are well built and usually a good bit cheaper than DID. I've had zero issues with them. Less than $100 on ebay, and if you have a little time to watch for sprockets you can come up with some killer deals on them as well. My current set are JT steels. Hope this helps some.

 

what is the difference between X-ring and O-ring?? i know o-ring chains have little o shaped rings in them...

 

O-ring chains have a standard O-ring between the chain plates to seal in the lube. X-ring chains have an O-ring, but it's in the shape of an X. (cross sectioned)
Basically, it looks like this on an o-ring chain: lOl (lube sealed at the bottom, outside air on top)
But if you cut an X-ring chain, it would look like this: lXl
The lube stays put better with an x-ring because in order for it to leak out (or contaminants to get in) it has to pass through 2 layers of the ring (both edges of the X vs. one edge of the O).

EDIT: Dammit, I always do chit the hard way. LOL...
Here's a pic that's probably better than my little diagrams above...
X-rings last longer, too, btw. Quality o-ring vs. quality x-ring..... x-ring is the way to go.

 

thanks Kilgore...guess that'll be the way i go when i replace mine

 

Good info/explanations & illustrations of both types of chains on D.I.D Chains website...
http://www.didchain.com/streetChains.html

There is also a chain maintenance tutorial for those that need it as well.

 

I have done the replacement of the sprockets and chain when I just got my bike. As "gotcbr" already mentioned, there is a really nice How To written up by "Incognito". It really helped me.

You can also go with pretty much any brand. They all are well built these days. The technology is proven, and it's working pretty well. I went with Regina 520 chain at the time.

Maintenance is the most important part after all, not the brand.

Go with what you like and just get your own experience dealing with it!