i have you a link from BARF that shows exactly how to do it mang...

mine were done in the late 30Ks...like 39 or something, still in spec, didn't have to adjust, but one intake is at the limits.

 

well he told me every 5k or 6k would be a good time to check them. so........if i had them done at 20k, when should i have them done again? how will i know when its time to have them checked again?

sorry for the thread jack and the numerous questions, i just dont know much about motors.

 

If it makes u feel any better i havent checked my honda clearance in my car in 140k miles. Should do soon and will probably need adjusting as well ill probably check the bike at 30k then every 15k after that. im sure im mechanically inclined to do it myself

 

I wish it were as easy as doing the valves on the car! That reminds me I've gotta check/adjust them on my Accord too... it's been awile. It's soooo easy on the car though, only 4 tools total needed and I can have it done in 30 min or so, lol. Bike = not so easy [:@]

Jason I wouldn't worry about your bike too much. Every 5k like he's telling you is waaaaaaaaaayyyy overkill... that's just rediculous ESPECIALLY for a Honda of all bikes. At the very least check it every 16k like the manual advises for peace of mind, but honestly I wouldn't worry about it for 30k or so, unless you straight up abuse it or race it constantly, which I don't think you do. Like I said, mine went 100k before needing an adjustment. I don't beat on mine these days, but back in the day when I was a lil more crazy she got put through her paces plenty... running wide open right up near redline for miles and miles and miles and miles at a time, and they still held spec just fine. You're call though.... I'm not trying to steer you away from the maintence schedule, just sharing my own experience as well as advice I've gotten from old people that have been working on these things forever (one owns his own [very reputable] bike shop, going on 30 yrs now). But you're getting ripped if you do them every 5k, that I do know!

 

Thanks everone for your input. It's what I figured you all would have to say. Didn't want to wast my time.

 

My apologies Rodantking if your thread isn't closed, but for the responders, can you tell me about Kawi engines needing valve adjustments. I have a friend who won't ride her bike cause the maintenance schedule says she's overdue. I made it worse by comparing Honda to Kawi quality.Don't remember exactlywhat bike, but from what Irecall it's an '01 banana seat sport touring bike, carbureted ZX7 engine. It's bone stock.

 

thirdgen how long does it take for the bike? I can pretty much do anything on a ford 4.6 motor how easy should it be for me lol? And is there any special tools needed i should know about?

 

checked mine at 16k and i only had one valve that was out of the spec and all the others were at the extremes so i went ahead and moved them all to the middle portion of the specifications and im at 25k now and its so much better. I just gotta stop crashing at the track

 

the valves are bucket and shim. not exactly simple to do, plus you gotta have the right size shims. I read the thread on Barf that Tahoe referred to some time ago, and decided right then, that is about the only thing I will not do on my bike. I have rebuilt more than one engine, and have always done all my work on my own bikes, but Im not sure this is something that I want to take on.

 

4.6's are GRAVY to work on!! Love those motors Alot easier than the 6.0L Powerstroke diesels I work on everyday [&:]

Anyways, valve adjustment on the bike is no small job. To do a full check and adjustment, I would allow a full weekend at least for the first time doing it. There's alot of stuff that needs to be removed to change out the shims. Checking them isn't too bad.... all you need to remove is the tank, airbox, valve cover, and side fairings (maybe drop the radiator down too.... makes a lil easier). You'll need some feeler gauges to measure the clearance... no other special tools needed just for checking them. But if you adjust them, you'll need some sort of micrometer to measure the shims (unless they're already marked... I really don't remember). I don't have access to it anymore, but when I was down in SoFla my buddy had some sort of diamond cutter thing, you could just grind down the shims to the size you need and reuse them (since the clearance usually always tighten up, you usually always go smaller shims). That's what I did with mine.

To do the adjustment, you've gotta remove the throttle bodies, remove the CCT, remove the cams. Oh yea and you need to write down each measurement for each valve so you know which ones you need to change. You'll need in in-lb torque wrench to properly tighten the camshaft carrier plate properly.

Hey it could be worse... it could be a VTEC VFR [:-] The VTEC buckets ARE the shims (only for the VTEC valves... not all of them). Sooooo that means if it's out of spec, you can't replace just the shim or grind it down, gotta replace the entire bucket (big $$)