The OEM automatic cam chain tensioner is a known problem in Honda motorcycle engines. Even the one in my dirtbike failed. When I bought my 06 600RR 4 years ago it had a really nasty rattle during deceleration, just like you described. I put in a manual tensioner and have never even had to adjust it. I'd look there first. The 600RR is pretty easy to replace. Only the right side fairing and tool compartment has to be removed to access it. When my buddy did his 2001 F4i, he had to remove the fuel tank to get to it.

 

Check out this thread.
https://cbrforum.com/forum/cbr-600rr...-noise-153682/

 

I got brand new OEM tensioner, but its an idea to try out manual one and se what happends.
Tnx

 

If it's not too hard to get to, throw in the OE one. You can always do the manual one down the road. If it's a serious pain to get to I'd recommend just biting the bullet and getting a manual tensioner. Once you have it adjusted right you'll likely never have to touch it again.

 

I just replaced mine with an OEM. If you go that route, one thing that isn't mentioned in the write-ups, is to remove the small bolt at the back of the old one and put it in the new one AFTER you install and pull the spring holder out. It is a very tight space to "work" in. I dropped it many times trying to get it threaded in while holding it between two fingers. A towel stuffed underneath to prevent it from going anywhere in the engine area and a stick magnet are your friends! Good luck!

Love that color scheme, btw!

 

I have done that. New OEM is already installed. Procedure was followed as you described. No luck, noise still present, just a bit less.
Next step is to try manual one.
I have just ordered new PSR tensioner.
If that does not work out, i got more work to do on engine. I'll keep you updated.
Thank you all so far on great support.

 

The PSR is what I have in mine. It's been great. To adjust it, leave the adjusting bolt a little loose and start your bike. At idle you can hear the chain slapping a little, slowly turn in the adjuster by hand until you hear the noise stop. Then tighten the lock nut and you're most likely set. It's VERY important that once you hear the chain rattle stop you don't continue to turn in the adjuster, even though it's still easy to do by hand. Over tightening will stress your cam and crank bearings, as well as the chain. Once you have the lock nut tight, give it a few good revs. You shouldn't hear any more rattling as the RPMs come back down. If there's a little, you can try a quarter turn to take up any harmonic noise in the chain. At that point, you should be able to tell if there's something else making noise.
Good luck! Curious how it turns out.

 

Gotcha! My concern would be that if it were the CCTL, the new OEM should have been fine (mine original lasted just under 18,000). If it is still making noise, then I don't think a manual tensioner is the answer... but I'm still pretty new to these, so my knowledge base is a bit thin...

 

You would sure thinks so. However, sometimes even new parts can be faulty. In my 8 years as a fleet mechanic I have definitely learned that! That being said, i put an OEM tensioner in my 03 CRF450R after the first one went bad, and within 2 months it was rattling again. That, plus the overwhelming favor online, is why I went to manual. Been zero issues for several years now, (9,000 miles on the CBR since) so I'm definitely a believer.

 

Very unusual to hear the cam chain making noises on decel. I'd take a good look at your drive chain going to the rear wheel before doing major engine tear downs.