Tray cut for the undertail. Anyone want to check my work and verify that this is cut more or less correctly? Also, is the gap between the tray and the frame normal?

Thanks!

 

Some more work today.

After cutting the undertail, I re-sanded the headlights (still not completely happy, but they're good enough) and I sanded the clutch and stator covers. I put both the covers back on (with my usual sloppy gasket ability) and then reconnected the clutch cable. Since I had one end reconnected, I put on the clutch lever and then moved to the other side and put the brake lever on.

My HIDs came in, but I haven't messed with them but to unpack them. The boxing was pretty bad (just a taped up styrofoam box) but as long as the lights work, it's all good.

For anyone who's gotten shorties for the f4i, it seems like the OEM brake lever has more pieces than the shorty, but I think the shorty works correctly. Is that standard?

Pics attached.

 

Ha.. yeah... the styrofoam box. Forgot about that. My stuff was fine, the box was pretty beat up but it didn't hurt any of the bits inside.

 

Just a couple updates, not much interesting to report; school has eaten my life a bit.

Sunday I realized there was no way the mesh I got from Amazon was going to work - it's just too stiff to mold well to the fairing holes and looked like crap. So, I bought so modeling mesh and will see how that goes when it gets here today or tomorrow.

I also realized that the paint for my frame wasn't going to cure correctly (it was getting small defects already) and so I blasted some Rustoleum Engine Enamel on top. It's not quite as much of a satin finish anymore, but still looks decent.

I also got my decal yesterday, and cleared my tank today. A few shots, right after the last coat. I dropped my wheels and tires off at the shop, but forgot my wallet, so I have to pick them up today.

I hope to have most everything back together this weekend, but because we have company coming into town tomorrow I might not make that deadline. I want to give the paint a little more time to settle and see how it goes.

 

I've been a bit slow the last couple of days, but I got back to work this morning.

I installed the passenger pegs yesterday or the day before. Put on the gauge, gauge holder, and the horn. Slapped on the front brake lines (but not the brakes.) The kickstand, too. I also added a decal from Cycle Tech (a local mechanic shop) the other day on my swingarm.

Today I got the shifter and brake rearsets installed, then reassembled the rotors on the wheels, the sprocket, and mounted the wheels (although I didn't torque everything yet, especially the pinch bolts.) The tires spin wonderfully. The rear brake holder and master cylinder are also installed.

It's really beginning to look like a bike again. I'd caution people who plan to paint their bike not to paint the surface of the sprocket holder that the sprocket rests on; it makes it really difficult to wedge the sprocket on. Also the pivot points of the brake and shifter.

Tomorrow I have most all of the day off, so I'd like to get the brakes and the exhaust on. I'm a little worried about the read brake - the piston seems to be stuck and I'm not sure how to push it back in.

Any suggestions?

Pics attached.

 

Use a c-clamp and some bits of wood to push the cylinder back in. Take it slow and leave the bleeder cracked with a hose attached so the fluid doesn't decompress the master. Honestly though, you really should take it out and clean it up, if it is stuck, chances are it will continue to stick and you will have a problem with the pads dragging.

 

I'm a little afraid to take it out, because that's how I messed up the front pistons :/

I think once it gets fluid around it, it'll stop sticking.

Right now it's drained of fluid and completely separate from the master cylinder. Could I just C-clamp it without reattaching it so that I can put the brake pads back in?

 

Yeah, if you already have it off the bike you won't have to worry about the fluid. Just try to keep the pressure as close to the center of the piston as possible and take it slow! They are easy to damage, but it sounds like you know that already... :S

 

No go, I'm afraid

I tried a c-clamp with some wood, but the clamp split the wood before the piston moved. Then I decided I'd put it in a vise with wood on each side and a socket for leverage; the vice pushed the wood over the edges of the piston well before the piston moved.

That bastard is really stuck. I think I'll just buy a new one, paint it, and have a whole new, used, brake system.

 

Well, now I spoke too soon. I used a socket (1 1/16", like the one for the rear wheel nut) placed on top of the piston and lubed it with a bit of brake fluid. That made it come out just fine.

I guess the wood was just too soft.