Alright so my f4i is acting up, when I start it after letting it sit for hours it doesn't go to any type of warm up temp and slowly decrease, it starts at about 1100rpm and if I let it sit it bogs down and dies, if I try to give it throttle it instantly bogs and dies, don't know what's going on there. Another thing, just happened yesterday, I switched my wiring harness back to my original one because the other one I swapped for which looked newer had some gremlins, well after doing so my start solenoid doesn't do anything. No sound or anything. All my lights turn on and the button acts like it's supposed to, I click it in and the lights cut out to be able to start the bike but the solenoid doesn't do anything at all, if I jump the solenoid it starts right up no issues, could I have fried my starter solenoid? Right now I'm more worried about the bogging issue when I start it. It used to start cold and go to around 3k until it warms up and then drops to around 1300rpm and runs great, also upon riding off there are sometimes that I can give it throttle and it just goes, other times it likes to bog down a little. I have a power commander 3 but it's not hooked up, it does work but I don't have it plugged in. I'm thinking it's giving it too much gas and not enough air but I could be wrong. And if that's the case then how do I use the power commander to fix that?

 

Hi and welcome!

Do these tests:

1. measure battery voltage with everything OFF. volts = ???
2. measure battery voltage when pushing start-button. volts = ???

 

I don't have a voltmeter I did have a plug that went to the relays in the tail section, the grey 10 pin plug, that had some wires come out and disconnect from the pins so I replaced the plug itself and fixed the wires, but still the same symptoms. I'm thinking I did fry my solenoid because I've checked every plug and wire that goes to and from the starter, the 30amp fuse is still good, but no sound from the solenoid itself. I tried another solenoid but that's before I saw the wires so I think I fried both solenoids.

 

Oa multimeter is an invaluable tool to have. You don’t need an expensive one. Most auto parts places have little basic models for less than $20.00.

Without one, when you are troubleshooting anything electrical, you are reduced to swapping components that very well may be fine. You save that $20 very quickly.

 

Believe me I know, I had one, wasn't expensive but I left it outside one day and came out later on and someone took off with it. I would kill to have it right now lmao

 

Most of time, nothing's bad, so swapping out perfectly working parts with brand-new perfectly working parts changes nothing. Other than lightening your wallet.

In this case, you're not getting power from start-button to solenoid.

And having wires disconnected won't fry solenoid. Image you've got floor-lamp that turns on when you flip wall switch. Someone disconnects floor lamp from wall socket. You come in and flip switch couple of times, no lights! Did you flipping switch couple times fry lamp? Of course not! Plug it back in and it'll work perfectly fine.

In this case, you've had disconnected ground wires at common ground block in back. Plug them back in and whatever was disconnected should work now. Post photos if repair job. Then use multimeter to measure wiring through connector to make sure they're connected.

In this case, you'll want to:

1. measure continuity between solenoid's green-red wire to chassis-ground. There are safety switches between solenoid and ground, such as neutral, kickstand and clutch switches. If these aren't plugged in and connected properly, good solenoid will never work. Replacing with new solenoid won't work either.

2. measure power at activation-terminal yel/red wire when pushing start-button. If no power, you want to trace wire upstream and test for power at each junction to see where power disappears.


Make effort to to get meter. This is 5-minute fix with multimeter.
https://www.harborfreight.com/electr...ter-63759.html

 

Without one, when you are troubleshooting anything electrical, you are reduced to swapping components that very well may be fine. You save that $20 very quickly.