spring/fork questions
#11
12-31-2007, 09:49 PM
RE: spring/fork questions
RaceTech has a guide on setting the preload spacers inside the forks. Basically you just cut down your old ones and reinstall them.. but you have to cut them to specs. I use a pipe/tubing cutter i bought from Harbor Freight for $15 to do that job.
My forks have RaceTech springs also, but i have the preload all wrong ... bike handles like crap. That could be also because the back spring is too weak for my body weight.. and the bike feels like the front sits high compared to the back. I haven't set up the adjustments yet. Man.. if you know where i can buy a rear spring for my stock Showa shock that would be great. I think I'm also going to revalve the forks with RaceTech's Gold Valve kit.
I have noticed much improvment in break dive and rebound since the new spring install. Mine are .95 rate.
i don't know if this is right, but i moved up to a 17" front wheel and 120 tire from a 16" wheel with a 130 tire... that part is right lol 16" fronts suck hard. What i did after changing the preload spacers, new springs is to adjust the compression setting to 6 clicks in with a screwdriver. The preload adjusters i set so three lines are exposed. This is not the same/correct setting for every bike and rider let me say. I also changed the oil from 8 wt to 10wt Maxum brand.. like that matters much about off the shelf fork oil brands. Which kinda makes me wonder why RaceTech's fork oil is $25 a quart? Also guys... stay the heck away from those cheap ebay fork seals.. STICTION big time. I need to change mine back to new oem's. Oh let me get to what i was first going to say.. i raised my forks 2mm up into the tripple trees. Not sure if that was right but man the bike would handle worse if i left the height stock. I'm thinking about adjusting the height again so they stick up to a total of 5mm.
I'm going to look for a better spring to buy for the rear... more stiff for my 275lbs. I plan on losing 50 of that weight this new year. I'm working out now.
My forks have RaceTech springs also, but i have the preload all wrong ... bike handles like crap. That could be also because the back spring is too weak for my body weight.. and the bike feels like the front sits high compared to the back. I haven't set up the adjustments yet. Man.. if you know where i can buy a rear spring for my stock Showa shock that would be great. I think I'm also going to revalve the forks with RaceTech's Gold Valve kit.
I have noticed much improvment in break dive and rebound since the new spring install. Mine are .95 rate.
i don't know if this is right, but i moved up to a 17" front wheel and 120 tire from a 16" wheel with a 130 tire... that part is right lol 16" fronts suck hard. What i did after changing the preload spacers, new springs is to adjust the compression setting to 6 clicks in with a screwdriver. The preload adjusters i set so three lines are exposed. This is not the same/correct setting for every bike and rider let me say. I also changed the oil from 8 wt to 10wt Maxum brand.. like that matters much about off the shelf fork oil brands. Which kinda makes me wonder why RaceTech's fork oil is $25 a quart? Also guys... stay the heck away from those cheap ebay fork seals.. STICTION big time. I need to change mine back to new oem's. Oh let me get to what i was first going to say.. i raised my forks 2mm up into the tripple trees. Not sure if that was right but man the bike would handle worse if i left the height stock. I'm thinking about adjusting the height again so they stick up to a total of 5mm.
I'm going to look for a better spring to buy for the rear... more stiff for my 275lbs. I plan on losing 50 of that weight this new year. I'm working out now.
#12
12-31-2007, 10:03 PM
#13
01-01-2008, 12:12 AM
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RE: spring/fork questions
ORIGINAL: fastrr
RaceTech has a guide on setting the preload spacers inside the forks. Basically you just cut down your old ones and reinstall them.. but you have to cut them to specs. I use a pipe/tubing cutter i bought from Harbor Freight for $15 to do that job.
My forks have RaceTech springs also, but i have the preload all wrong ... bike handles like crap. That could be also because the back spring is too weak for my body weight.. and the bike feels like the front sits high compared to the back. I haven't set up the adjustments yet. Man.. if you know where i can buy a rear spring for my stock Showa shock that would be great. I think I'm also going to revalve the forks with RaceTech's Gold Valve kit.
I have noticed much improvment in break dive and rebound since the new spring install. Mine are .95 rate.
i don't know if this is right, but i moved up to a 17" front wheel and 120 tire from a 16" wheel with a 130 tire... that part is right lol 16" fronts suck hard. What i did after changing the preload spacers, new springs is to adjust the compression setting to 6 clicks in with a screwdriver. The preload adjusters i set so three lines are exposed. This is not the same/correct setting for every bike and rider let me say. I also changed the oil from 8 wt to 10wt Maxum brand.. like that matters much about off the shelf fork oil brands. Which kinda makes me wonder why RaceTech's fork oil is $25 a quart? Also guys... stay the heck away from those cheap ebay fork seals.. STICTION big time. I need to change mine back to new oem's. Oh let me get to what i was first going to say.. i raised my forks 2mm up into the tripple trees. Not sure if that was right but man the bike would handle worse if i left the height stock. I'm thinking about adjusting the height again so they stick up to a total of 5mm.
I'm going to look for a better spring to buy for the rear... more stiff for my 275lbs. I plan on losing 50 of that weight this new year. I'm working out now.
RaceTech has a guide on setting the preload spacers inside the forks. Basically you just cut down your old ones and reinstall them.. but you have to cut them to specs. I use a pipe/tubing cutter i bought from Harbor Freight for $15 to do that job.
My forks have RaceTech springs also, but i have the preload all wrong ... bike handles like crap. That could be also because the back spring is too weak for my body weight.. and the bike feels like the front sits high compared to the back. I haven't set up the adjustments yet. Man.. if you know where i can buy a rear spring for my stock Showa shock that would be great. I think I'm also going to revalve the forks with RaceTech's Gold Valve kit.
I have noticed much improvment in break dive and rebound since the new spring install. Mine are .95 rate.
i don't know if this is right, but i moved up to a 17" front wheel and 120 tire from a 16" wheel with a 130 tire... that part is right lol 16" fronts suck hard. What i did after changing the preload spacers, new springs is to adjust the compression setting to 6 clicks in with a screwdriver. The preload adjusters i set so three lines are exposed. This is not the same/correct setting for every bike and rider let me say. I also changed the oil from 8 wt to 10wt Maxum brand.. like that matters much about off the shelf fork oil brands. Which kinda makes me wonder why RaceTech's fork oil is $25 a quart? Also guys... stay the heck away from those cheap ebay fork seals.. STICTION big time. I need to change mine back to new oem's. Oh let me get to what i was first going to say.. i raised my forks 2mm up into the tripple trees. Not sure if that was right but man the bike would handle worse if i left the height stock. I'm thinking about adjusting the height again so they stick up to a total of 5mm.
I'm going to look for a better spring to buy for the rear... more stiff for my 275lbs. I plan on losing 50 of that weight this new year. I'm working out now.
I got my rear spring from carolina cycle (vendor here) took a couple of days to get.
I reset all my adjustments back to stock and ill tweak from there when it gets warmer.
#14
01-01-2008, 12:30 PM
Senior Member
RE: spring/fork questions
Congrats on the springs. When I took the plunge, I was thinking of just doing springs and my research unanimously came back as: "do valving".
https://cbrforum.com/m_321392/tm.htm
https://cbrforum.com/m_321392/tm.htm
#15
01-01-2008, 01:38 PM
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RE: spring/fork questions
ORIGINAL: Jaybird180
Congrats on the springs. When I took the plunge, I was thinking of just doing springs and my research unanimously came back as: "do valving".
https://cbrforum.com/m_321392/tm.htm
Congrats on the springs. When I took the plunge, I was thinking of just doing springs and my research unanimously came back as: "do valving".
https://cbrforum.com/m_321392/tm.htm
More research and sag setting up today ,i found mine still about 15mm to much preload..DOing that today
#16
01-01-2008, 06:44 PM
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#17
01-01-2008, 07:27 PM
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RE: spring/fork questions
ORIGINAL: Jaybird180
How are you taking your sag measurements? Do you have a helper or have you found a way to do it alone? If so, share your technique.
How are you taking your sag measurements? Do you have a helper or have you found a way to do it alone? If so, share your technique.
As far as setup ,i measured total height of the race tech springs with the stock spacers VS the stock springs and spacers .The total setup was about 30mm higher.I used race tech instructions and made new spacers.Which i made 18mm above the stock height settings(basicly to start off with a 18mm preload).Preload setting is now on the first ring vs the 4th ring when i purchased the bike.
In the fully extended position my spacers are about 10mm down in the tube.At full compression they are about 30mm or so out of the tube.
Measuring everyone has their own way..HEre is the way i measured "orignally posted by someone who was taught this by Gary Jaehne "(except when it says wheel off the ground i just jacked up via the hoist/straps).Just kept my eye on it to make sure it wasnt totally coming off the stands.
[align=center]Setting Rider Sag[/align] [align=center] The following is a simple "how-to" guide that should help in setting your rider sag. These numbers should work for most any sportbike, although you should check your shop manual for any recommended settings.[/align]
FRONT SAG [align=center]
1.[/align] Place a ty-wrap around your fork tube just above the dust cap (or just below depending on what type of forks you have).
Make it snug but not too tight so it can move freely but stay in place.
2. Sit on the bike (in full gear for exact measurement) with someone holding it up in the riding position. This will move the ty-wrap up (or down) to its most compressed position.
3. Get off the bike (easy), put down sidestand, pull the bike towards you and back so the front wheel is off the ground (you can do this with a little practice) and have someone measure the distance between the ty-wrap and the dust cover.
4. This measurement is your front sag based upon your weight. It should be ~34mm-38mm (34-track 38-street).
5. Adjust your front preload as needed to make this correct (see owner's manual).
REAR SAG
1. Place a small piece of tape on the side of your tail section (sprocket side) straight up from your rear axle. This will be your reference point so make sure it is as straight up/down from the axle as possible and maybe mark a dot or something with a pen for accuracy.
2. Sit on the bike (in full gear for exact measurement) with someone holding it up in the riding position.
3. Have someone measure the distance from the marker down to the rear axle.
4. [font="verdana"]Get off the bike (easy), put down the sidestand, pull the bike towar
#18
01-02-2008, 01:13 AM
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#19
01-05-2008, 04:07 PM
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RE: spring/fork questions
ORIGINAL: Jaybird180
Thanks for the write-up. I could see how the front could be done alone, but the rear would require a trusting helper (ouch, you dropped the bike on my head).
Thanks for the write-up. I could see how the front could be done alone, but the rear would require a trusting helper (ouch, you dropped the bike on my head).
.Here is another good link http://www.onthethrottle.com/v2/ ,videos at that.. go to suspension -honda -then click on f4i ...
Got a little warm streak (high 50's)..Put a tad over 125 miles on it.Bike rides/handles completely different than it did new.More of a "cushion" ride,takes bumps 100% better,very little dive under braking.Rode on some the routes i normally take everyday..It takes the curves a LOT better..Still need to fine tune the settings but either way i would make this a first mod to get the most out of the bike..
#20
01-06-2008, 01:35 PM
Senior Member
RE: spring/fork questions
Interesting video. He suggests that around 200lbs the bike should work well. I've been told that Honda has been changing suspension components year-year on the CBRs. Maybe I didn't need to spend a bunch of money on suspension. Maybe the bike was perfect as it was. Maybe....Oh what am I saying?????
I like Dave Moss. Good stuff.
https://cbrforum.com/m_268287/tm.htm
I like Dave Moss. Good stuff.
https://cbrforum.com/m_268287/tm.htm
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