Alright its been far too long for me to have a bike but not in running condition.
Last summer i replaced my CCT with a MCCT and thought that would fix my rattle, but it didn't and i messed with the setting of the MCCT around 10-20 times to try to get it not to rattle. But in this process i think i may have tighten the MCCT to much and skipped a tooth in my timing. I look on BARFs Valve adjustment DIY and checked my valve clearance. Every single valve was way off spec for only having 17k miles. But like a retarded teen i did stupid **** on the bike, over 500 wheelies in 1st gear getting it to redline. i think this constant abuse and lack of oil from being in a wheelie position the valves just got beat and beat. I always changed the oil with the 10$ synthetic honda oil every 3k miles but the constant abuse was just to much.
OK now for the main question, How do i get my bike so the timing is back to standard/normal?
I might have cranked over the bike counter clockwise or clockwise but it was super hard to crank from the bolt by the starter(maybe not starter right side of the bike) and i heard from many people turning over a motor the wrong way will skip your teeth. i always had my laptop with me while i was working on my bike and i knew about the TDC and other hash marks and everything lined up when i put it back together and fired it up. It started up but made a horrible noise 10x worse than the average CCT rattle. Plans are to buy a new head, headgasket, and figure out how to fix the timing situation, any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks John

 

I assume you replaced the valves. Resetting your timing shouldn't be too hard for you since you seem to know what you're doing. Just VERY tedious. I ran into this problem when I checked my valves and incorrectly reinstalled the MCCT (too loose), which led me to skip a sprocket. You might want check the teeth on the intake cam sprockets...let's hope you didn't knock one off by over tightening the cct, which may explain the 10x rattling. I don't think it's possible, but hey, worse case scenario.

Resetting it required me to literally open up the engine, loosen the cam chain, and play with the camshafts and intake cam sprockets until all the hash marks line up again. May require you to empty your oil, depending on how much oil you have in it. Also a heads up when putting the cam shaft holder back on, I think it's made out of aluminum so it requires specific torque at SPECIFIC bolts, at SPECIFIC times.

Do not do this alone btw. A second hand will really help put the cam chain back on the sprocket in the correct places. Making sure all those hash marks lined up was a HUGE PITA. 8-23 in the manual should help. This is what I did to reset my timing. Hope it helped.

Lol don't stress too much over it and have fun.

 

It's supposed to be super hard to crank at certain rotations, depending on where you are too. Certain spots were easy, then certain spots felt like I was going to snap something, but it all moves. If all your hash marks line up, then I doubt it's your timing.

 

Thank you i really want the bike running after my wrist heals from being f'ed. i have a fsm or i can download one, but yeah engine is already apart head is in my room. hopefully i can get some pics when i rip it apart.I have never done anything with an engine beside this, so it should be interesting.
EDIT: When putting on the new head do i have to get the head machined and the block?