Rearsets, shifter arm, heim joints
#1
Rearsets, shifter arm, heim joints
long time no post, im working on something, and i seen that a vfr rearsets will fit the f4i. thats cool and all and im ok with making a adapter plate otherwise.
this is my problem, i want to raise the rearsets even more, i already did the diy rearset raise, as you can see here
the rearsets themselves shouldnt touch the swingarm if they go up more however, the shift lever is going to hit the rear set, in a scissor fashion. which means no shifting down
which means i have to move the stock rearsets up as a whole unit instead of pivoting on the top screw more because the linkage will hit as well.
this thing may help the offset to keep my quick shifter off of the sprocket.
Universal 30 Tooth Shifter Arm | Cafe Racer Rearsets Shift Linkage
however if i go with a stock shifter arm from another bike that is shorter it shouldnt it decrease the amount of movement needed to shift? for example a r1 shifter arm appears to be not as "tall" this will also buy clearance allowing to pivot.
to sum things up im trying to find a solution to having a quickshifter with gp shift not getting chain lub slung on it, and higher rearsets.
a shorter shift arm may allow me to remove less of the sprocket cover, shift easier, and allow more pivot, unfortunately there is no salvage yards for me to look at bikes.
is there any way to change the lever for one that has the linkage lower, or does anyone know of some rearsets that do this as well?
like i said with the current setup im going to scissor the lever or hit the linkage. and with that, my idea's in a picture
thanks for any help guys, there's a few other things im thinking like a combination of heim joints to reverse do gp shift without flipping the shifter arm, but yeah i dont think i could do that if it were even possible.
EDIT:: i forgot to mention i found these http://www.ebay.com/itm/Billet-Adjus...440447&vxp=mtr
but if i can do rearsets then awesome? or change the lever?
and i'd hate to steal an image, but if i put this shift lever on upside down it would lower the shift linkage too
http://www.flyhammer.it/shop/431-822...-rsv-04-08.jpg
this is my problem, i want to raise the rearsets even more, i already did the diy rearset raise, as you can see here
the rearsets themselves shouldnt touch the swingarm if they go up more however, the shift lever is going to hit the rear set, in a scissor fashion. which means no shifting down
which means i have to move the stock rearsets up as a whole unit instead of pivoting on the top screw more because the linkage will hit as well.
this thing may help the offset to keep my quick shifter off of the sprocket.
Universal 30 Tooth Shifter Arm | Cafe Racer Rearsets Shift Linkage
however if i go with a stock shifter arm from another bike that is shorter it shouldnt it decrease the amount of movement needed to shift? for example a r1 shifter arm appears to be not as "tall" this will also buy clearance allowing to pivot.
to sum things up im trying to find a solution to having a quickshifter with gp shift not getting chain lub slung on it, and higher rearsets.
a shorter shift arm may allow me to remove less of the sprocket cover, shift easier, and allow more pivot, unfortunately there is no salvage yards for me to look at bikes.
is there any way to change the lever for one that has the linkage lower, or does anyone know of some rearsets that do this as well?
like i said with the current setup im going to scissor the lever or hit the linkage. and with that, my idea's in a picture
thanks for any help guys, there's a few other things im thinking like a combination of heim joints to reverse do gp shift without flipping the shifter arm, but yeah i dont think i could do that if it were even possible.
EDIT:: i forgot to mention i found these http://www.ebay.com/itm/Billet-Adjus...440447&vxp=mtr
but if i can do rearsets then awesome? or change the lever?
and i'd hate to steal an image, but if i put this shift lever on upside down it would lower the shift linkage too
http://www.flyhammer.it/shop/431-822...-rsv-04-08.jpg
Last edited by RudyGT; 09-04-2013 at 03:53 PM. Reason: link
#2
#3
nah, im trying to raise the rearsets but lower the shift linkage so i can actually do so.
the best options i found so far is the RC51 rearsets
or a made in china set that has holes drilled in multiple spots for the hiem joint and the pin or whatever its called at the end of the lever that your foot hits.
i want the gp shift so i was thinking if i go low enough, i could minimize the cutting of the sprocket cover.
i want to get the footpeg above the swingarm, at the top of it at least. so far finding cheap used parts is impossible.
also im wondering if i shorten the shift arm that attaches to the circular thing in the gearbox, im bad with terms.
if i shorten that, if it will move more than a longer one, meaning i won't have to press down as far on the lever
the best options i found so far is the RC51 rearsets
or a made in china set that has holes drilled in multiple spots for the hiem joint and the pin or whatever its called at the end of the lever that your foot hits.
i want the gp shift so i was thinking if i go low enough, i could minimize the cutting of the sprocket cover.
i want to get the footpeg above the swingarm, at the top of it at least. so far finding cheap used parts is impossible.
also im wondering if i shorten the shift arm that attaches to the circular thing in the gearbox, im bad with terms.
if i shorten that, if it will move more than a longer one, meaning i won't have to press down as far on the lever
#4
OK SO! in regards to the shorter shift arm? so far it works, it moves less but its a barely noticeable increase in effort when shifting, and no problems of miss-shifting yet.
it does lower the linkage, but one still cannot replace the sprocket cover.
it did require a dynojet 8mmF/M to 6mmM type D i think it was tie rod, or shift rod.
this came off a 2000 something probably later 2007ish, the bike ran for a long time, yzf 600r, which is a carburated 4 cylinder, its not the r6 its a 600r.
you can notice the height difference. i have yet to figure something out about the rearsets except this, everyone seems to want to stand on the ***** of their feet.
i wanted them raised because of clearance for my toes and so i can shift gears without having to resettle on the bike from being on my toes..
gonna just have to feel this one out when i get my damn *** to the track.
it does lower the linkage, but one still cannot replace the sprocket cover.
it did require a dynojet 8mmF/M to 6mmM type D i think it was tie rod, or shift rod.
this came off a 2000 something probably later 2007ish, the bike ran for a long time, yzf 600r, which is a carburated 4 cylinder, its not the r6 its a 600r.
you can notice the height difference. i have yet to figure something out about the rearsets except this, everyone seems to want to stand on the ***** of their feet.
i wanted them raised because of clearance for my toes and so i can shift gears without having to resettle on the bike from being on my toes..
gonna just have to feel this one out when i get my damn *** to the track.
#5
reviving this because its a problem again.
i scraped my peg off doing something like that, see how damn low it is.
the rearsets are actually raised but the pedal is hanging low because it sucks
does anyone have an f4i race bike with gp shift? what set up are you using?
thats what happened. here is the video ----------> scroll this way cause that last image is way too big ------------------------------------------>
i scraped my peg off doing something like that, see how damn low it is.
the rearsets are actually raised but the pedal is hanging low because it sucks
does anyone have an f4i race bike with gp shift? what set up are you using?
thats what happened. here is the video ----------> scroll this way cause that last image is way too big ------------------------------------------>
Last edited by RudyGT; 11-05-2013 at 03:33 PM.
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